More Random Rants

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Witsend
    Banned
    • Nov 2012
    • 2942

    More Random Rants

    Recently worked on a couple Hyundai s that made me wonder why Godzilla hadn't considered Seoul instead Tokyo.
    The first was a 2012 Sonata where the rear brake caliper bracket bolt is held captive by a rear suspension arm .Not a big deal until the Midwest salt seizes the bolts in the bushing sleeves in a few more years.
    The next was a 2008 Elantra , I changed out a outer rear door handle and retainer cap in a ten minutes but found out that the door will opens fine from both the inside and outside until the doors are electrically locked and then( even if the child lock is set off on the latch) you can not get into or out from the rear door, until repeatedly cycling driver lock switch from lock to unlock till it decides to truly unlock. Have to disconnect window and pull some metal pan regulator assembly (door module) to access , just to inspect and not see any thing conclusive as the cause of the problem. No TSBs found , but a lot of broken handle issues on the internet. What's the root cause?
    Attached Files
  • Witsend
    Banned
    • Nov 2012
    • 2942

    #2
    Well both the lock actuator /latch assy and a new handle base ( the handle base return spring felt a little weaker than the rest), and both these was my recommended fix, but no one in the area had both so the customer needing the car naturally decides she did not want to drive around with window wired up with things all apart another day. "A little too costly to fix right now and can live without the LR door working."
    Maybe I could have left the actuator connector unplugged and the door latch might release ok if the door was just locked and unlocked manually, but wasn't getting paid another dime over doing the outer handle job to experiment and analyze things further.
    Last edited by Witsend; 09-08-2016, 08:05 AM.

    Comment

    • greasybob
      Senior Member
      • May 2008
      • 1590

      #3
      a little heat on that bolt and it'll shake loose without bushing damage.. The hard part is putting it back in the way it came out. I opt for putting the bolt in facing the other direction.

      Comment

      • Witsend
        Banned
        • Nov 2012
        • 2942

        #4
        a little heat on that bolt and it'll shake loose without bushing damage.. The hard part is putting it back in the way it came out. I opt for putting the bolt in facing the other direction.
        Reply With Quote
        Thanks , I sometimes feel a need to torque the bolt and nut tighter before loosening things up to slightly begin to stretch bolt and microscopically distort and narrower bolt enough within the captive steel sleeve to weaken the bond of corrosion of bolt to the bushing sleeve before loosening and a smack or two with a hammer and hopefully the metal bushing sleeve doesn't turn with the bolt and destroy the bushing. Brake line tube nuts I often try to tighten more before attempting to loosen them in an effort to avoid replacing brake lines.
        Last edited by Witsend; 09-09-2016, 08:40 AM. Reason: Boo Boo, triing to appear smarter than the average Bear.

        Comment

        • Witsend
          Banned
          • Nov 2012
          • 2942

          #5
          a little heat on that bolt and it'll shake loose without bushing damage.. The hard part is putting it back in the way it came out. I opt for putting the bolt in facing the other direction.
          Reply With Quote
          Some thing just tells me the bolt is just going to expand from the heat and do nothing but get even more tighter inside sleeve and heat will melt rubber around sleeve damage bushing . You would think you would have to get the rusted sleeve to expand outside the bolt , not the bolt inside of it. So I assume if it has any chance of actually working , it would be after everything has cooled back to room temperature again that the expansion and contraction of the bolt and the sleeve occurred at different rates so in theory the oxidation bond of the rust actually got weakened or the seam of the sleeve opened microscopically enough that you should be able to drive the bolt out with a flat punch and air hammer? I got a bolt seized in a rear knuckle/ bearing carrier on a Lexus RX300 that I am replacing bearing with the knuckle still on the car because of that, and also the rear speed sensor is seized in it, and I don't want to take interior trim panel off to remove that from connector side. Its a PITA , but the bearing is in now. Just trying to keep the parts requirements down on this not so simple rear wheel bearing job.



          Holy Mother of God, " I " Better Start Doing It Right"

          Last edited by Witsend; 02-07-2018, 07:20 PM.

          Comment

          • gfuchikami
            Senior Member
            • May 2008
            • 388

            #6
            Originally posted by Witsend
            No TSBs found , but a lot of broken handle issues on the internet. What's the root cause?
            The root cause probably is that it's a Hyundai and not a Honda.

            Comment

            Working...