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  #51  
Old 06-03-2017, 01:05 PM
Witsend Witsend is offline
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Here is a good rear view image of view of the water pump sprocket being held in place with the generic supplied bolts that really should be special stepped bolts so they don't tread in so deep ,which ultimately pulls the sprocket up against tool face before bolts finally seem snug. The sprocket pulled outboard causes some misalignment and adding unwanted tension to the chain and tension er It worried me that I might have compromised or weakened something so I pulled the Timing cover and replaced the balance shaft chain and the tensioner.
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Last edited by Witsend; 06-07-2017 at 08:24 AM..
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  #52  
Old 06-14-2017, 05:57 PM
Witsend Witsend is offline
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Default Make a seized bolt into a Stud?

If unscrewing a bolt in aluminum that is in a bad spot that fights you the entire way and it only comes out so far before it feels like it won't budge anymore and you risk snapping it off, analyze the situation. Maybe if enough bolt thread is exposed if you only cut the bolt head off,it could still make due as a stud for a nut. Beats breaking the bolt off pushing your luck and trying to drill it out. Worked for me .

Last edited by Witsend; 06-16-2017 at 06:35 AM..
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  #53  
Old 06-15-2017, 10:05 AM
stioc stioc is offline
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Default Don't have $800 to spend on a Leak Tamer?

This less than $40 fogger https://www.amazon.com/CHAUVET-DJ-Hu...dp/B0002D0JX8/ plus a couple of step down adapters work surprisingly well.
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  #54  
Old 06-15-2017, 11:02 AM
Witsend Witsend is offline
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Quote:
Don't have $800 to spend on a Leak Tamer?
This less than $40 fogger https://www.amazon.com/CHAUVET-DJ-Hu...dp/B0002D0JX8/ plus a couple of step down adapters work surprisingly well.
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Been there and tried a similar Halloween Fogger I bought used for $20 off Craigslist. It does works ok for a larger vacuum leak on a intake manifold in close proximity to the smoke machine, but the OSHA approved type of smoke vapor it generates from the fog fluid seems to condense back to a fluid too soon to cover the distance and still be easily seen at the rear of the vehicle unless a hose is literally off. A bright light helps in some instances. Could hook a AC vacuum pump to a Hookah and put some 420 into the bowl.

Last edited by Witsend; 06-16-2017 at 06:34 AM..
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  #55  
Old 06-15-2017, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Witsend View Post
Could hook a AC vacuum pump to a Hookah and put some 420 into the bowl.
Now I know why the techs have a stupid grin on their faces after they're done checking for vacuum leaks
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  #56  
Old 06-19-2017, 07:25 AM
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Default Honda Timing Belt

Changed a water pump and Timing belt on a 3.5L 2010 Honda Pilot and went by the book of taking one of the battery hold down j bolts, tapering the tip of it and using it to remove the belt tension of T belt pulley in order to release tension and remove the belt . The confines of where I had to work at rear of compartment proved to be a PITA , and Since I was just replacing the belt (not reusing it) I think I might have wasted a good chunk of time doing this procedure instead of just cutting the old T belt near the tensioner (after statically timed of course). I might be wrong and have had a camshaft snap out of position and kiss a valve, but I figure if T belt is sliced on the tensioner side, the very slow gradual extension of the hydraulic gas charged belt tensioner, nothing is likely to suddenly explosively snap rotate or jump and I could save myself going through 15 minutes of additional Mickey Mouse BS when I'm not reusing the old T-belt, However if someone doesn't cut the T belt on the tensioner pulley side and accidentally slices the T-belt between the 2 cams or between the front cam pulley or crankshaft sprocket, the tensioner extension is likely going to rotate something out of position and you might kiss a valve to a piston or piston to a valve depending on what moves.
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Last edited by Witsend; 06-19-2017 at 07:51 AM..
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  #57  
Old 06-20-2017, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Witsend View Post
Changed a water pump and Timing belt on a 3.5L 2010 Honda Pilot and went by the book of taking one of the battery hold down j bolts, tapering the tip of it and using it to remove the belt tension of T belt pulley in order to release tension and remove the belt . The confines of where I had to work at rear of compartment proved to be a PITA , and Since I was just replacing the belt (not reusing it) I think I might have wasted a good chunk of time doing this procedure instead of just cutting the old T belt near the tensioner (after statically timed of course). I might be wrong and have had a camshaft snap out of position and kiss a valve, but I figure if T belt is sliced on the tensioner side, the very slow gradual extension of the hydraulic gas charged belt tensioner, nothing is likely to suddenly explosively snap rotate or jump and I could save myself going through 15 minutes of additional Mickey Mouse BS when I'm not reusing the old T-belt, However if someone doesn't cut the T belt on the tensioner pulley side and accidentally slices the T-belt between the 2 cams or between the front cam pulley or crankshaft sprocket, the tensioner extension is likely going to rotate something out of position and you might kiss a valve to a piston or piston to a valve depending on what moves.
Always a PITA the first time...we had a designated bolt for this procedure
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  #58  
Old 08-04-2017, 05:25 PM
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When tightening torque to yield bolts that require multiple passes, use a paint marker to mark each bolt after each pass. This reduces confusion and doubt if questioning if you turned them all the correct number of times. Works well if you've ever been interrupted during the process.
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  #59  
Old 08-04-2017, 05:30 PM
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Had a 2012 Chevy 3500 cube van that needed a fuel pump. Of course the tank was full and I can't get the truck on a lift. To ensure that the tank didn't flip of the floor jacks I was using to lower it I secured a couple of ratchet straps under to tank to help lower it.
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  #60  
Old 08-11-2017, 04:16 PM
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More ratchet strap tips. Ephratah mentioned the pods he had installed under his hoist to hold suspension arms in place while working. If you have a drive on hoist this works too with a ratchet strap to hold down the control arm to keep it out of your way. Don't want to stab a new half shaft boot.
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