Alternator Ripple testing

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  • Modis500
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2012
    • 358

    Alternator Ripple testing

    Was doing an AC ripple test on a 2002 Chev Avalanche, 5.3. Why do I get different ripple readouts when moving lead from + or - lead...Example, while hooked up from post on Alternator to + lead on battery, was reading a 450mV ripple (yes, it was that high), then went to the - terminal on battery, and it dropped to just 135mV. I'm sure there's an answer in the power user test portion, but was unable to find it. Any help? Having a blonde moment right now
    "If you aim for nothing, you'll hit it every time!"
    Zig Ziglar
  • Wheel
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2007
    • 719

    #2
    Originally posted by Modis500
    Was doing an AC ripple test on a 2002 Chev Avalanche, 5.3. Why do I get different ripple readouts when moving lead from + or - lead...Example, while hooked up from post on Alternator to + lead on battery, was reading a 450mV ripple (yes, it was that high), then went to the - terminal on battery, and it dropped to just 135mV. I'm sure there's an answer in the power user test portion, but was unable to find it. Any help? Having a blonde moment right now
    Battery acts as capacitor and dampens the ac ripple the closer you get to the battery. That is why taking reading at alternator is best.
    You can expect the reputation of your business to be no better than the cheapest item or service you are willing to sell. - Wheel

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    • Modis500
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2012
      • 358

      #3
      I did have red lead on alternator post for both tests...1st test was + lead battery to alt post (450mV), 2nd test - lead battery to alt post (135mV). I've seen a split in mV, nothing this big though.
      "If you aim for nothing, you'll hit it every time!"
      Zig Ziglar

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