Multi 1 Adapter Pin Out Question

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  • chaskuss
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2009
    • 192

    Multi 1 Adapter Pin Out Question

    I recently needed to scan a 1995 Ford Aspire, using the Multi 1 adapter. I found out that my 12.4 Modis would not even let me enter the correct VIN info to communicate with this old beast. So, I pulled out the trusty MT2500. Connected the scanner with the Multi 1 connected as outlined in the manual. I was able to enter the VIN info needed using the MT2500, but was unable to get past entering the VIN info and having the scanner accept it. Since I have two Multi 1 adapters, I tried the other adapter. That one would not even let me communicate. Suspecting a problem with the second Multi 1 adapter, I decided to check continuity of all the wires on both adapters. To my surprise, I found that both showed continuity on all wires EXCEPT the yellow wire. Below I have shown the female 15 pin DSub connector and where I found continuity and with what wire. Could anyone tell me where the yellow wire is supposed to connect to?? [Joe?]



    Pin 1 Black wire
    Pin 2 none
    Pin 3 White wire
    Pin 4 Red wire
    Pin 5 Blue wire
    Pin 6 Green wire
    Pin 7 Brown wire

    Pins 8 -15 none

    Are my adapters defective? Sure does not seem like Snap On would have a yellow wire that went nowhere.
  • Witsend
    Banned
    • Nov 2012
    • 2942

    #2
    A 95 Ford AzzFire?

    Might still have OBD1 though, check under the hood, LR of engine compartment for a Ford EEC 4 connector or maybe even a KIA / Hyundai diagnostic connector.
    A 95 Explorer has the OBD2 style connector under dash but the EEC4 diagnostic connector under hood to pull engine codes.
    Last edited by Witsend; 12-17-2014, 06:53 PM.

    Comment

    • chaskuss
      Senior Member
      • Dec 2009
      • 192

      #3
      Guess my question wasn't clear enough. I know where the connector is on the Aspire. It is OBD I. This car doesn't require you to connect the yellow wire. When I went to test both my Multi 1 adapters, I noticed that I had no continuity for the yellow wire in the connectors. What I want to know is, which pin on the Multi 1 adapter is the yellow wire supposed to be connected to? Anyone still have a Multi 1 they can do a pin out continuity test on for me?

      Comment

      • Crusty
        Senior Member
        • Dec 2007
        • 2450

        #4
        If I get a chance I'll see what I can find today.

        In the meantime, try reversing your meter leads. There could be a diode not visible and one way your meter could show open circuit, the other way it may show some conductivity.

        Comment

        • jm43130
          Senior Member
          • Apr 2008
          • 182

          #5
          MULTI 1

          I have a red multi 1 connector for solus pro and verus, and my pinouts referenced to your pin diagram, has pin #6 at 20k ohms resistance and pin#1 at 30k ohms resistance. They are the same with leads switched, so there are no diodes in mine. You would think old connectors would be the same. And the rest of the wires checked exactly like yours.

          Comment

          • Witsend
            Banned
            • Nov 2012
            • 2942

            #6
            Guess my question wasn't clear enough. I know where the connector is on the Aspire. It is OBD I. This car doesn't require you to connect the yellow wire. When I went to test both my Multi 1 adapters, I noticed that I had no continuity for the yellow wire in the connectors. What I want to know is, which pin on the Multi 1 adapter is the yellow wire supposed to be connected to? Anyone still have a Multi 1 they can do a pin out continuity test on for me?
            Reply With Quote
            Sorry Chaskuss ,My bad, the 15 pin cable connector illustration looked like a view of the 16 Pin DLC because the corners should ideally be rounded , not sharp, but I'm not known to be the sharpest tool in the shed either. Last night, after a stethoscoping things out I pulled what I thought was a noisey steering pump on a Chrysler Town and country and found the waterpump buried just beneath it is binding and rocking side to side, but not leaking a drop of antifreeze yet.
            Maybe if I had an electronic vibration analyzer and vibrate software I could have known for sure it was the water pump, now I got to take the vibration where the sun don't shine.

            Comment

            • chaskuss
              Senior Member
              • Dec 2009
              • 192

              #7
              Originally posted by jm43130
              I have a red multi 1 connector for solus pro and verus, and my pinouts referenced to your pin diagram, has pin #6 at 20k ohms resistance and pin#1 at 30k ohms resistance. They are the same with leads switched, so there are no diodes in mine. You would think old connectors would be the same. And the rest of the wires checked exactly like yours.
              Thank you Crusty & JM. While at work today, it dawned on me that perhaps my problem was that I was testing the connections with my ohmmeter set on the zero to 200 ohm scale. Duh! Once I set it to 200,000 ohms, things made more sense. It appears that there are resistors inline on the yellow wire. As JM mentions above, I found that the yellow wire had approx 20K ohms [19.6K] on pin 6 and approx 30K ohms [29.4K] on pin 1. Now that the light bulb finally went off in my head, I went back and re-tested all the leads. I found that the green lead also shows up on pin 1 at approx 10K [9.8K] ohms. The black lead also shows up on pin 6 at approx 10K [9.8K] ohms. So it turns out that three of the leads connect to more than one pin, via the use of in line [series] resistors.

              I fell victim to the old adage about what happens when you ASSume.

              Comment

              • Crusty
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2007
                • 2450

                #8
                Glad you got it figured out.

                It is kind of a "DOH" moment when you slap your forehead isn't it-??
                (don't ask me how I know-!! LOL)

                Just a word regarding using a meter, four decades ago we were taught to set the meters at the highest setting possible initially, then switch the meter down to lower scales for more accuracy once we know the ranges of the readings.
                Your experience and being candid about it is a GOOD reminder for us older dogs and a good lesson for younger techs too.

                Comment

                • chaskuss
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2009
                  • 192

                  #9
                  My forehead and palm are red

                  For future reference for others, below is the complete pin out for the Multi 1 Adapter.



                  Pin 1 Black wire - Green wire with 10K resistor - Yellow wire with 30K resistor
                  Pin 2 none
                  Pin 3 White wire
                  Pin 4 Red wire
                  Pin 5 Blue wire
                  Pin 6 Green wire - Yellow wire with 20K resistor - Black wire with 10K resistor
                  Pin 7 Brown wire
                  Pins 8 -15 none

                  Comment

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