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  #1  
Old 11-03-2018, 09:25 PM
diebog diebog is offline
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Default New to the Solus Pro, need to be pointed in the right direction

Hi, I recently bought a Solus Pro for a good deal to diagnose issues on cars I maintain. I haven't had much or any really experience with scanners besides a code reader. I read over the manual and I understand how to use the unit I just am having trouble understanding what the numbers all mean. Being a 92 I am limited to the tests available, when I was diagnosing some codes on my wife's 07 Nissan Frontier I was able to to a ton more tests fright from the scanner which made finding a COP on Cylinder 1 bad super easy. Apart from running KOEO and KOER tests which test fine and have no codes to show. Do I am needing to understand the data I am seeing to fix what is needed. I don't like throwing parts at a car to diagnose it as that's expensive, so I invested in a scanner to help with this.

If you care to read on, I have a 92 Ford Ranger 4.0 that this year is having issues passing smog. I replaced plugs, wires, idle air valve, cleaned MAF and throttle body, PCV valve isnt stuck and rattles fine, and I am still having trouble passing smog. I saved a movie file at idle (warmed up) and at 2,500 rpm but I don't know what or where to ask for help to figure out what area I need to look at. I am failing HC at idle, the rest of the tests are a pass, there is just to much unburned fuel. I sprayed around with carb cleaner for vacuum leaks but no real dead giveaway. Truck idles a little rough but not like a miss. I ran different fuel system cleaners as well as the "guarantee to pass" stuff but no luck. My truck has always passed smog with flying colors but this year something is not right. Smog guy said the cat is operating fine, as I thought maybe the cat was bad. Fuel pressure I checked and was in spec. No codes were present before this smog test or are now. I replaced the plug and wires because the first time I went to smog the guy did a pretest and the HC numbers were way high even at 2500 rpm. He suggested plugs and wires which I did and changed things significantly and he thought it would pass which it did on every other test but not on the idle. Max was 120 and I am 135. I am still to high. Smog guy said check for vac leaks which I have done already with no idle change. Here are my smog results
Idle-773RPM %C02= 14.7.....%02=0.4.....HCPPM= 135 and MAX is 120..... C0%= 0.05 and MAX is 1.00

2383-RPM %C02=15.1.....%02=0.1.....HCPPM= 40 and MAX is 180...... C0%=0.14 and MAX is 1.00


So I am hoping someone can point me to the right place to ask these questions. I realize this forum is for help with the actual unit, but hopefully someone can point me where to get help. I have a couple files saved on my Solus pro that I can upload as well.

Thanks for all your help!

Jeremy
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  #2  
Old 11-04-2018, 06:26 AM
Witsend Witsend is offline
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Generally higher HC with normal to low CO tells me the mixture is too lean. Some times if the thermostat regulated temperature does not reaching 190F, low fuel pressure, dirty injectors, worn out motor oil, and old sluggish O2 sensors might cause high HC issue.Sometimes a leaking EGR valve or EVR vacuum ,brake booster , or intake leak.
Some times a leaking fuel pressure regulators will cause a rich running condition with both HC and CO levels above normal. Oil deposit Crud build up on old plugs might indicate worn valve guides and some loss of engine compression.
Just some ideas.
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2018, 05:46 PM
diebog diebog is offline
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I neglected to mention that during the test the smog guys computer instructed him to do a 2 minute warm up in the middle of the test. Note that I drove 18 mins or so to smog place and while waiting my turn I let truck idle as I have read letting it sit and cool down effects the smog results. So even after the drive there and idling for 15 minuets (ambient temperature was 75 or so) the system still required a 2 minute warm up. I don't know what the system looks for that indicates it needs a warm up but for some reason it did. According to the dash gauge my truck does run cool and always has. The sensor has been replaced in the past. I guess it might be bad again? That's why I was looking for help interpreting the movie data I saved on my Solus so I can see if something is out of whack. Is there a vehicle specific guide snap on has to find what normal data should be?

Side note, the old plugs were on the white side which means it's running lean, but is it a vac leak or is the MAF sending bad info? Or possibly O2 sensor? Also My truck doesn't have a EGR that I am aware of. As far as testint for vac leaks, what's the best way this is done? Some say propane, some say water, carb cleaner, or smoke machine. My idle being so unstable it's hard to see a noticable change indicating a leak. I've been told very small leaks the pcm adjusts for so the change can only be seen by a scan tool mapping the rpm. Which I am able to do its just the idle being not being smooth as it could be it's difficult to do.

When checking for a lazy Injector what's the best way to do this? When I had them out I checked the spray pattern and they all looked consistant and had a nice fan spray and they all olm within spec. The only way I know is to buy all injecotrs. But if it's not an injector then that's a waste of money.

I could buy a new MAF, new O2 sensors and new injectors and hope for the best but that's allot of wasted money and is the reason I bought this Solus pro. Just need to figure out how to interpret the data I am seeing.

Thanks for your suggestions. I appreciate it allot!
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  #4  
Old 11-04-2018, 07:35 PM
Witsend Witsend is offline
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Think if over a 100k vehicle , I would put a new O2 sensor and 190F thermostat in it ,check the Egr vacuum regulator vent filter isn't real dirty where some vacuum might still be felt getting to the EGR valve and lifting it slightly off seat Pinch off vacuum hoses, one at a time to brake booster, evap canister, HVAC and see if Idle improves? Check where base timing is at warm with the spout connector unplugged? Check fuel pressure?
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Old 11-04-2018, 07:56 PM
diebog diebog is offline
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I am pretty sure I don't have an egr but ill double check. So as for the thermostat are you saying getting a different temp rang being 190? Opposed to what stock is? Is there a reason behind going with 190? Just curious. Also fuel pressure is within spec, and Ill try to pinch off vac lines and see if there is a change. And what are you referring to by spout connector? I dont have a distributor on this model, or is there spout connectors on the 4.0 ranger? Thanks!
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  #6  
Old 11-06-2018, 06:41 AM
Witsend Witsend is offline
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Quote:
And what are you referring to by spout connector? I dont have a distributor on this model, or is there spout connectors on the 4.0 ranger? Thanks!
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My bad, The 4.0 has Electronic Distributorless Ignition, so no adjustable timing. I don't recall if my 95 Explorer with 4.0 still had that little grey plug spout connector(EEC shorting bar) to unplug at right rear of engine compartment to at least check default base module timing that the ignition module puts things at , then when plugged back in you can watch to see timing change with rpm.

Last edited by Witsend; 11-06-2018 at 06:56 AM..
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  #7  
Old 11-24-2018, 07:38 PM
diebog diebog is offline
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I found I did have a spout connector after all. I checked timing and it wasn't off. The book says the timing isn't adjustable so I don't know what I would do if it was off.

Im still wondering if there is a place to get support on the data I have saved to my scanner? Any ideas?
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  #8  
Old 11-24-2018, 08:08 PM
Witsend Witsend is offline
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Quote:
Im still wondering if there is a place to get support on the data I have saved to my scanner? Any ideas?
11-06-2018 08:41 AM

There is a free PC based program you can download and save Snap On Scanner and scope files to playback ,manipulate, and watch on your PC in greater detail
called Shop Stream Connect. Not sure , but I think you would have to save and move the files to an SD card put in slot B, eject card, open the SSC program and plug the SD card into the card reader of your PC to transfer and save , name and watch.
https://www.snapon.com/diagnostics/us/SSC
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  #9  
Old 11-24-2018, 08:24 PM
diebog diebog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Witsend View Post
There is a free PC based program you can download and save Snap On Scanner and scope files to playback ,manipulate, and watch on your PC in greater detail
called Shop Stream Connect.
https://www.snapon.com/diagnostics/us/SSC
Thanks, Ill check it out. But isn't this just another way to view the data? I was more or less looking for help to interpret the data for my specific issues I am looking for. Diagnostics is very foreign to me, I wish there was a online course or something. I was hoping to possibly find someone who knows about the Ranger or similar 4.0 engines that are also put in the Explorer and Aerostar vehicles that I could email the data file to and could get some help on what is reading correctly and or what isn't.

What would be cool is if the scanner has a "normal" reading for that specific VIN kind of like when you get a smog check and they show what average normal readings are and should be. Besides RPM and engine temp data, all the rest makes no sense to me, Are those numbers high, low? Or are they bouncing all over and shouldn't?

Im sure such info doesn't exist. I guess if I had the correct training on diagnostics I would know what to look for. Until that happens I am lost.
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  #10  
Old 11-24-2018, 08:34 PM
Crusty Crusty is offline
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Shopstream Connect is a FANTASTIC program-!!
If Snap-On didn't have that available, I wouldn't have even considered their equipment a decade ago.
Download the program.
Copy/move the files to a USB
Copy the files to your computer.
Tell the SSC program where to find the saved files.

Now you can analyse the data collected.

As for the EGR, I havn't come across any Fords of that era that don't have them, and yes, the vacuum modules are very much problematic. The aluminum housing with the vacuum lines connected above the driver side valve cover clog up the vacuum control lines. New control module. Part number probably changes up several times.
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