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  #11  
Old 11-24-2018, 08:46 PM
Crusty Crusty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diebog View Post
Thanks, Ill check it out. But isn't this just another way to view the data? I was more or less looking for help to interpret the data for my specific issues I am looking for. Diagnostics is very foreign to me, I wish there was a online course or something. I was hoping to possibly find someone who knows about the Ranger or similar 4.0 engines that are also put in the Explorer and Aerostar vehicles that I could email the data file to and could get some help on what is reading correctly and or what isn't.

What would be cool is if the scanner has a "normal" reading for that specific VIN kind of like when you get a smog check and they show what average normal readings are and should be. Besides RPM and engine temp data, all the rest makes no sense to me, Are those numbers high, low? Or are they bouncing all over and shouldn't?

Im sure such info doesn't exist. I guess if I had the correct training on diagnostics I would know what to look for. Until that happens I am lost.
Plug in the scanner EVERY time you start the vehicle.
RECORD the data. Save the data. Put the data in your computer. Look at the data, all of it, using SSC.
You have to recognize what is normal before you can discern what is ABNORMAL.
Barometric pressure, MAP pressure, Mass AirFlow
Throttle position. Vehicle speed. Engine LOAD.

A coolant sensor is a coolant sensor....Nissan, Toyota, GM, Ford, Chrysler, Bmw, Mercedes, VW.
A TPS is a TPS, Nissan, Toyota, Gm Ford, Chrysler....etc.
Read up on Oxygen sensors. They're the "tattletales" as to what's happening during the combustion process.
The "fuel trims" are the computer adjustments for the oxygen sensor "tattles"...
They're all skinning the same cat. HOW they achieve the desired results vary SLIGHTLY, but the fundamentals are all the same.
Same thing for things such as ABS and wheel speed sensors. They're ALL skinning the same cats.

LOOK at the data with key ON engine OFF.
RECORD IT and study it.
Start the engine, run it and record it. Study it.
DRIVE the vehicle, RECORD it. Study it.
Common sense. THINK it through.
It might be "greek" but it isn't "latin".... LOL
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  #12  
Old 11-24-2018, 09:57 PM
diebog diebog is offline
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Thanks for the suggestions. I have done most of that, just don't know how to interpret the data. One thing I haven't been able to do is do a drive test as the connector is in the engine bay. So running the cable inside the cab is difficult. Thats what OBDII connectors are nice for. They are inside the cab. I thought of leaving the hood propped up so the cable can run out, and use a tie down to hold hood down?

So say I am looking at the O2 sensor reading (this truck has only 1) the numbers go all over, how do I find what a 92 Ford ranger with a 4.0 V6 engine O2 sensor should be showing? Only thing I can think of is to put in a new one and see. But throwing money at parts has never been a good way to diagnose, plus its expensive. Same goes for other sensors. I have an OEM service manual for the this but its just how to take it apart/repair stuff. Nothing about diagnosing the emission system. I have the service manual for my 07 Frontier and it has all of that stuff in it. Even the steps to follow to diagnose with the consult II and what PID's to look at and what the readings should be. I wish I could find something like that for this Ranger. A mechanic I know uses ALLDATA site or something alike (cant recall exactly) and says its like oem stuff, but requires a monthly subscription. I wonder if something like that has the info I need?

Also I am 100% positive there is no EGR valve on these. I couldn't find one and I did some research and I guess this year didn't have one. Later years did though.
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  #13  
Old 11-25-2018, 09:39 AM
Witsend Witsend is offline
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If the O2 sensor is switching rapidly from close to 0V to 1V the O2 sensor should be ok . Baro reading calculated by MAF I think should be around 159hz at sea level It's been awhile since I dealt with OBD1 but I don't believe recalling seeing Bank 1 and Bank 2 long and short fuel trims ever displayed
GMs had some Block Learn thingy with a Magic Number being 128 and Ford had some Integrator Bloc or some other thing that was Greek to me.
If it were my Turd and the compression, spark and fuel supply was tested to be good,no exhaust leaks either is I make sure the T-stat is the OE 190 thermostat, the plenum gaskets above and below the fuel manifold spacer thing are new,and no fuel wetness at the vacuum connector of the fuel pressure regulator. Fresh 10w-30 oil and filter change instead of 5W-30 and a motorcraft PCV in an older higher miles truck in a milder climate can help reduce the HC slightly IMO as well as wrapping the pipes with header tape leading to an older cat converter to retain as much heat as possible . Maybe The lacquer Thinner in the gas tank trick or submerging the Cat in a bucket of hot Laundry soap water overnight can even restore a little efficiency back. 16ppm on the HC is not that much to go ...
As long as you can get thing to pass emission lane . They don't test OBD1 cars here in Illinois any longer , and Good Riddance
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  #14  
Old 11-25-2018, 12:36 PM
Crusty Crusty is offline
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Running only 18 minutes before the test isn't going to get everything warm enough. If it were run for 1/2 hr or more at highway speeds, it might get warm enough. After only 18 minutes the engine oil has just barely been run long enough to even REACH full operating temperature, let alone burn off anything left over from that start cycle.
What state are you in-?? What's the ambient temperature-?? If it was as cold as it was up here in the Great White North last week, you'd have to drive it like you stole it for an hour to get everything fully warmed up.
Idling the engine is just like blowing air across a burn on the back of your hand. That will cool it down.
Which plugs did you use-?? Were they gapped by you to spec before installation-??
What fuel has been used for the last 6 months-??
You say it's running a little rough but not like a misfire. Well running "rough" doesn't indicate it's got all cylinders working (burning) properly.
Ever hear of a "water" or "coke" valve job-?? Clean the carbon build up on the valve heads from worn valve guides.
What about the secondary air injection system-?? Too little air = not enough oxygen to assist the converter. Too much air = too lean for the converter to do it's job, and I wouldn't expect it to put any air into the exhaust at idle.
The **** stuffed into the gas tank is funny. Their "fine print" says that it will pass when using their stuff "if all the emissions components are working properly". Well, if everything is "working properly", you don't NEED that "Guaranteed to pass" ****.
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