Mechanical condiments

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  • Witsend
    Banned
    • Nov 2012
    • 2942

    #16
    For stubborn cooling system O-ring and other tough fitting parts that cannot be "lubed" with antifreeze, I turn to my party pack size of KY Jelly in the tool box. Water based lube that gathers some strange views from people nosing around in my work area!
    Reply With Quote
    Lol, Astroglide probably works on Chevy Ventures too

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    • greasybob
      Senior Member
      • May 2008
      • 1590

      #17
      Well after 2 months my can of Aero Kroil has finally run out. And after numerous side by side comparisons I'm not that impressed that I would go and buy another can at nearly $20. What I can say about it is that after the bolt or nut is loose, it goes over the rusted threads easier than PB blaster. So it's a better lubricant but not that much better at getting things to break loose. I should also add that it smells better. Nothing beats putting a little heat on things to get them unstuck, flame or inductive. Actually if it's something that you're not going to reuse any ways I would just as soon see it break on the first twist, watch the knuckles !!

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      • JamesO
        Junior Member
        • Dec 2014
        • 23

        #18
        Rust or Iron Oxide expands and this is why it is so hard to get rusted nuts and bolts to unscrew.

        A quote from the Rust Wiki

        "When iron rusts, the oxides take up more volume than the original metal; this expansion can generate enormous forces, damaging structures made with iron"

        This is why heat is so useful with removing nuts and sometimes bolts if you can reasonably heat the female portion of the threaded joint. Heat will cause the nut to expand an then take the pressure off the rusted interface and allow the nut to back of easier.

        Smoke wrench or an induction heating coil are a must for anyone working on older vehicles or in the rust belt.

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        • greasybob
          Senior Member
          • May 2008
          • 1590

          #19
          Thanks for the scientific explanation for my bloody knuckles. So why does heating then dousing with water work so well. The inductive heater is nice but I'm kinda waiting for the day when I can just get a high powered laser to point at a rusted nut or bolt and heat it with that or even better, a laser powered torch to cut through a rusted fastener.
          Last edited by greasybob; 07-20-2017, 05:19 PM.

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          • David Green
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2009
            • 382

            #20
            I'm not quite there yet to put the tools down and say, well its not my problem anymore

            Heat does not always help with steel and alloy mixes, cold spray I have found is useless, so anyone got any really good tips for this, apart from my explanation above

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            • 51cub
              Junior Member
              • Jun 2017
              • 2

              #21
              Ford Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric compound for slider pins and anyplace I'd use dielectric grease. PB Blaster for penetrating oil. White Lithium for hinges and latches. Silicone spray for making hydraulic hoses and as a rubber lubricant except tires get tire lube. Brake Clean comes from NAPA, or other supplier, and most hardware comes from Lawson

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              • Matt
                Senior Member
                • Dec 2008
                • 328

                #22
                51cub brought up a great point, hardware. I think Lawson has great stuff, but most of mine comes from Fastenal. I haven't seen hide-nor-hair of my Lawson guy in months . One other product I just started recently using is is B'laster (PB Blaster) dry graphite lube part # 8-GS. It works great in door latches and rear hatch latches. Most of my customers are rural, which means dirt roads, lots of dust. This dry graphite doesn't collect any dust and seems to last a long time.

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                • Matt
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2008
                  • 328

                  #23
                  Just started using CRC brand brake caliper slide pin grease. Part# 05359.

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                  • Witsend
                    Banned
                    • Nov 2012
                    • 2942

                    #24
                    Bottom Feeder Port freight work gloves

                    I typically spend only about $6.00 a pair for the black non disposable work gloves and get a box of 50 of the 7ml blue nitrile gloves for about $10, (the 5ml box of 100 I pass on because they're junk and tear too easily and believe it or not If the 7ml ones work better and if they aren't damaged and aren't heavily covered in grease or dirty oil, after sitting and dried out I just push the fingers in , blow inside them like a balloon and they pop back out and I reuse them till they tear. The other day I was picking up and had at least a couple dozen in my work area , with about 4 pair of non disposable filthy work gloves I no longer wished to wear , I just tossed all in the washing machine with fender covers and some work clothes and they went through the dryer fine . I took the nitrile gloves out of dryer turned wet inside out blowing inside and wiped them dry and plan to reuse again.

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                    • Matt
                      Senior Member
                      • Dec 2008
                      • 328

                      #25
                      Conductive Paste

                      The spray on battery terminal goo in aerosol can is ok but never really gets under the cables IMO. Lawson Products "Tru-Copper Plate" PN#86587 is a brush on paste. It is advertised as a "Conductive Anti-Seize Compound". You put this stuff on the batt terminals and cables before you connect them. Being a conductive paste allows you to paint all the exposed surfaces before assembly. Those tiny little Ford 8mm batt bolts have met their match !

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                      • Witsend
                        Banned
                        • Nov 2012
                        • 2942

                        #26
                        CRC Battery cleaner in yellow can . Sprays on yellow and turns red in presence of acid . Works really good with a pick or small screw driver to dig out the heavier crud .

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                        • Matt
                          Senior Member
                          • Dec 2008
                          • 328

                          #27
                          I agree Wit! It's labeled "Technician Grade". Part # 095023.

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