New to the Solus Pro, need to be pointed in the right direction

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  • diebog
    Junior Member
    • Sep 2018
    • 6

    New to the Solus Pro, need to be pointed in the right direction

    Hi, I recently bought a Solus Pro for a good deal to diagnose issues on cars I maintain. I haven't had much or any really experience with scanners besides a code reader. I read over the manual and I understand how to use the unit I just am having trouble understanding what the numbers all mean. Being a 92 I am limited to the tests available, when I was diagnosing some codes on my wife's 07 Nissan Frontier I was able to to a ton more tests fright from the scanner which made finding a COP on Cylinder 1 bad super easy. Apart from running KOEO and KOER tests which test fine and have no codes to show. Do I am needing to understand the data I am seeing to fix what is needed. I don't like throwing parts at a car to diagnose it as that's expensive, so I invested in a scanner to help with this.

    If you care to read on, I have a 92 Ford Ranger 4.0 that this year is having issues passing smog. I replaced plugs, wires, idle air valve, cleaned MAF and throttle body, PCV valve isnt stuck and rattles fine, and I am still having trouble passing smog. I saved a movie file at idle (warmed up) and at 2,500 rpm but I don't know what or where to ask for help to figure out what area I need to look at. I am failing HC at idle, the rest of the tests are a pass, there is just to much unburned fuel. I sprayed around with carb cleaner for vacuum leaks but no real dead giveaway. Truck idles a little rough but not like a miss. I ran different fuel system cleaners as well as the "guarantee to pass" stuff but no luck. My truck has always passed smog with flying colors but this year something is not right. Smog guy said the cat is operating fine, as I thought maybe the cat was bad. Fuel pressure I checked and was in spec. No codes were present before this smog test or are now. I replaced the plug and wires because the first time I went to smog the guy did a pretest and the HC numbers were way high even at 2500 rpm. He suggested plugs and wires which I did and changed things significantly and he thought it would pass which it did on every other test but not on the idle. Max was 120 and I am 135. I am still to high. Smog guy said check for vac leaks which I have done already with no idle change. Here are my smog results
    Idle-773RPM %C02= 14.7.....%02=0.4.....HCPPM= 135 and MAX is 120..... C0%= 0.05 and MAX is 1.00

    2383-RPM %C02=15.1.....%02=0.1.....HCPPM= 40 and MAX is 180...... C0%=0.14 and MAX is 1.00


    So I am hoping someone can point me to the right place to ask these questions. I realize this forum is for help with the actual unit, but hopefully someone can point me where to get help. I have a couple files saved on my Solus pro that I can upload as well.

    Thanks for all your help!

    Jeremy
  • Witsend
    Banned
    • Nov 2012
    • 2942

    #2
    Generally higher HC with normal to low CO tells me the mixture is too lean. Some times if the thermostat regulated temperature does not reaching 190F, low fuel pressure, dirty injectors, worn out motor oil, and old sluggish O2 sensors might cause high HC issue.Sometimes a leaking EGR valve or EVR vacuum ,brake booster , or intake leak.
    Some times a leaking fuel pressure regulators will cause a rich running condition with both HC and CO levels above normal. Oil deposit Crud build up on old plugs might indicate worn valve guides and some loss of engine compression.
    Just some ideas.

    Comment

    • diebog
      Junior Member
      • Sep 2018
      • 6

      #3
      I neglected to mention that during the test the smog guys computer instructed him to do a 2 minute warm up in the middle of the test. Note that I drove 18 mins or so to smog place and while waiting my turn I let truck idle as I have read letting it sit and cool down effects the smog results. So even after the drive there and idling for 15 minuets (ambient temperature was 75 or so) the system still required a 2 minute warm up. I don't know what the system looks for that indicates it needs a warm up but for some reason it did. According to the dash gauge my truck does run cool and always has. The sensor has been replaced in the past. I guess it might be bad again? That's why I was looking for help interpreting the movie data I saved on my Solus so I can see if something is out of whack. Is there a vehicle specific guide snap on has to find what normal data should be?

      Side note, the old plugs were on the white side which means it's running lean, but is it a vac leak or is the MAF sending bad info? Or possibly O2 sensor? Also My truck doesn't have a EGR that I am aware of. As far as testint for vac leaks, what's the best way this is done? Some say propane, some say water, carb cleaner, or smoke machine. My idle being so unstable it's hard to see a noticable change indicating a leak. I've been told very small leaks the pcm adjusts for so the change can only be seen by a scan tool mapping the rpm. Which I am able to do its just the idle being not being smooth as it could be it's difficult to do.

      When checking for a lazy Injector what's the best way to do this? When I had them out I checked the spray pattern and they all looked consistant and had a nice fan spray and they all olm within spec. The only way I know is to buy all injecotrs. But if it's not an injector then that's a waste of money.

      I could buy a new MAF, new O2 sensors and new injectors and hope for the best but that's allot of wasted money and is the reason I bought this Solus pro. Just need to figure out how to interpret the data I am seeing.

      Thanks for your suggestions. I appreciate it allot!

      Comment

      • Witsend
        Banned
        • Nov 2012
        • 2942

        #4
        Think if over a 100k vehicle , I would put a new O2 sensor and 190F thermostat in it ,check the Egr vacuum regulator vent filter isn't real dirty where some vacuum might still be felt getting to the EGR valve and lifting it slightly off seat Pinch off vacuum hoses, one at a time to brake booster, evap canister, HVAC and see if Idle improves? Check where base timing is at warm with the spout connector unplugged? Check fuel pressure?

        Comment

        • diebog
          Junior Member
          • Sep 2018
          • 6

          #5
          I am pretty sure I don't have an egr but ill double check. So as for the thermostat are you saying getting a different temp rang being 190? Opposed to what stock is? Is there a reason behind going with 190? Just curious. Also fuel pressure is within spec, and Ill try to pinch off vac lines and see if there is a change. And what are you referring to by spout connector? I dont have a distributor on this model, or is there spout connectors on the 4.0 ranger? Thanks!

          Comment

          • Witsend
            Banned
            • Nov 2012
            • 2942

            #6
            And what are you referring to by spout connector? I dont have a distributor on this model, or is there spout connectors on the 4.0 ranger? Thanks!
            Reply With Quote
            My bad, The 4.0 has Electronic Distributorless Ignition, so no adjustable timing. I don't recall if my 95 Explorer with 4.0 still had that little grey plug spout connector(EEC shorting bar) to unplug at right rear of engine compartment to at least check default base module timing that the ignition module puts things at , then when plugged back in you can watch to see timing change with rpm.
            Last edited by Witsend; 11-06-2018, 07:56 AM.

            Comment

            • diebog
              Junior Member
              • Sep 2018
              • 6

              #7
              I found I did have a spout connector after all. I checked timing and it wasn't off. The book says the timing isn't adjustable so I don't know what I would do if it was off.

              Im still wondering if there is a place to get support on the data I have saved to my scanner? Any ideas?

              Comment

              • Witsend
                Banned
                • Nov 2012
                • 2942

                #8
                Im still wondering if there is a place to get support on the data I have saved to my scanner? Any ideas?
                11-06-2018 08:41 AM

                There is a free PC based program you can download and save Snap On Scanner and scope files to playback ,manipulate, and watch on your PC in greater detail
                called Shop Stream Connect. Not sure , but I think you would have to save and move the files to an SD card put in slot B, eject card, open the SSC program and plug the SD card into the card reader of your PC to transfer and save , name and watch.

                Comment

                • diebog
                  Junior Member
                  • Sep 2018
                  • 6

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Witsend
                  There is a free PC based program you can download and save Snap On Scanner and scope files to playback ,manipulate, and watch on your PC in greater detail
                  called Shop Stream Connect.
                  https://www.snapon.com/diagnostics/us/SSC
                  Thanks, Ill check it out. But isn't this just another way to view the data? I was more or less looking for help to interpret the data for my specific issues I am looking for. Diagnostics is very foreign to me, I wish there was a online course or something. I was hoping to possibly find someone who knows about the Ranger or similar 4.0 engines that are also put in the Explorer and Aerostar vehicles that I could email the data file to and could get some help on what is reading correctly and or what isn't.

                  What would be cool is if the scanner has a "normal" reading for that specific VIN kind of like when you get a smog check and they show what average normal readings are and should be. Besides RPM and engine temp data, all the rest makes no sense to me, Are those numbers high, low? Or are they bouncing all over and shouldn't?

                  Im sure such info doesn't exist. I guess if I had the correct training on diagnostics I would know what to look for. Until that happens I am lost.

                  Comment

                  • Crusty
                    Senior Member
                    • Dec 2007
                    • 2450

                    #10
                    Shopstream Connect is a FANTASTIC program-!!
                    If Snap-On didn't have that available, I wouldn't have even considered their equipment a decade ago.
                    Download the program.
                    Copy/move the files to a USB
                    Copy the files to your computer.
                    Tell the SSC program where to find the saved files.

                    Now you can analyse the data collected.

                    As for the EGR, I havn't come across any Fords of that era that don't have them, and yes, the vacuum modules are very much problematic. The aluminum housing with the vacuum lines connected above the driver side valve cover clog up the vacuum control lines. New control module. Part number probably changes up several times.

                    Comment

                    • Crusty
                      Senior Member
                      • Dec 2007
                      • 2450

                      #11
                      Originally posted by diebog
                      Thanks, Ill check it out. But isn't this just another way to view the data? I was more or less looking for help to interpret the data for my specific issues I am looking for. Diagnostics is very foreign to me, I wish there was a online course or something. I was hoping to possibly find someone who knows about the Ranger or similar 4.0 engines that are also put in the Explorer and Aerostar vehicles that I could email the data file to and could get some help on what is reading correctly and or what isn't.

                      What would be cool is if the scanner has a "normal" reading for that specific VIN kind of like when you get a smog check and they show what average normal readings are and should be. Besides RPM and engine temp data, all the rest makes no sense to me, Are those numbers high, low? Or are they bouncing all over and shouldn't?

                      Im sure such info doesn't exist. I guess if I had the correct training on diagnostics I would know what to look for. Until that happens I am lost.
                      Plug in the scanner EVERY time you start the vehicle.
                      RECORD the data. Save the data. Put the data in your computer. Look at the data, all of it, using SSC.
                      You have to recognize what is normal before you can discern what is ABNORMAL.
                      Barometric pressure, MAP pressure, Mass AirFlow
                      Throttle position. Vehicle speed. Engine LOAD.

                      A coolant sensor is a coolant sensor....Nissan, Toyota, GM, Ford, Chrysler, Bmw, Mercedes, VW.
                      A TPS is a TPS, Nissan, Toyota, Gm Ford, Chrysler....etc.
                      Read up on Oxygen sensors. They're the "tattletales" as to what's happening during the combustion process.
                      The "fuel trims" are the computer adjustments for the oxygen sensor "tattles"...
                      They're all skinning the same cat. HOW they achieve the desired results vary SLIGHTLY, but the fundamentals are all the same.
                      Same thing for things such as ABS and wheel speed sensors. They're ALL skinning the same cats.

                      LOOK at the data with key ON engine OFF.
                      RECORD IT and study it.
                      Start the engine, run it and record it. Study it.
                      DRIVE the vehicle, RECORD it. Study it.
                      Common sense. THINK it through.
                      It might be "greek" but it isn't "latin".... LOL

                      Comment

                      • diebog
                        Junior Member
                        • Sep 2018
                        • 6

                        #12
                        Thanks for the suggestions. I have done most of that, just don't know how to interpret the data. One thing I haven't been able to do is do a drive test as the connector is in the engine bay. So running the cable inside the cab is difficult. Thats what OBDII connectors are nice for. They are inside the cab. I thought of leaving the hood propped up so the cable can run out, and use a tie down to hold hood down?

                        So say I am looking at the O2 sensor reading (this truck has only 1) the numbers go all over, how do I find what a 92 Ford ranger with a 4.0 V6 engine O2 sensor should be showing? Only thing I can think of is to put in a new one and see. But throwing money at parts has never been a good way to diagnose, plus its expensive. Same goes for other sensors. I have an OEM service manual for the this but its just how to take it apart/repair stuff. Nothing about diagnosing the emission system. I have the service manual for my 07 Frontier and it has all of that stuff in it. Even the steps to follow to diagnose with the consult II and what PID's to look at and what the readings should be. I wish I could find something like that for this Ranger. A mechanic I know uses ALLDATA site or something alike (cant recall exactly) and says its like oem stuff, but requires a monthly subscription. I wonder if something like that has the info I need?

                        Also I am 100% positive there is no EGR valve on these. I couldn't find one and I did some research and I guess this year didn't have one. Later years did though.

                        Comment

                        • Witsend
                          Banned
                          • Nov 2012
                          • 2942

                          #13
                          If the O2 sensor is switching rapidly from close to 0V to 1V the O2 sensor should be ok . Baro reading calculated by MAF I think should be around 159hz at sea level It's been awhile since I dealt with OBD1 but I don't believe recalling seeing Bank 1 and Bank 2 long and short fuel trims ever displayed
                          GMs had some Block Learn thingy with a Magic Number being 128 and Ford had some Integrator Bloc or some other thing that was Greek to me.
                          If it were my Turd and the compression, spark and fuel supply was tested to be good,no exhaust leaks either is I make sure the T-stat is the OE 190 thermostat, the plenum gaskets above and below the fuel manifold spacer thing are new,and no fuel wetness at the vacuum connector of the fuel pressure regulator. Fresh 10w-30 oil and filter change instead of 5W-30 and a motorcraft PCV in an older higher miles truck in a milder climate can help reduce the HC slightly IMO as well as wrapping the pipes with header tape leading to an older cat converter to retain as much heat as possible . Maybe The lacquer Thinner in the gas tank trick or submerging the Cat in a bucket of hot Laundry soap water overnight can even restore a little efficiency back. 16ppm on the HC is not that much to go ...
                          As long as you can get thing to pass emission lane . They don't test OBD1 cars here in Illinois any longer , and Good Riddance

                          Comment

                          • Crusty
                            Senior Member
                            • Dec 2007
                            • 2450

                            #14
                            Running only 18 minutes before the test isn't going to get everything warm enough. If it were run for 1/2 hr or more at highway speeds, it might get warm enough. After only 18 minutes the engine oil has just barely been run long enough to even REACH full operating temperature, let alone burn off anything left over from that start cycle.
                            What state are you in-?? What's the ambient temperature-?? If it was as cold as it was up here in the Great White North last week, you'd have to drive it like you stole it for an hour to get everything fully warmed up.
                            Idling the engine is just like blowing air across a burn on the back of your hand. That will cool it down.
                            Which plugs did you use-?? Were they gapped by you to spec before installation-??
                            What fuel has been used for the last 6 months-??
                            You say it's running a little rough but not like a misfire. Well running "rough" doesn't indicate it's got all cylinders working (burning) properly.
                            Ever hear of a "water" or "coke" valve job-?? Clean the carbon build up on the valve heads from worn valve guides.
                            What about the secondary air injection system-?? Too little air = not enough oxygen to assist the converter. Too much air = too lean for the converter to do it's job, and I wouldn't expect it to put any air into the exhaust at idle.
                            The **** stuffed into the gas tank is funny. Their "fine print" says that it will pass when using their stuff "if all the emissions components are working properly". Well, if everything is "working properly", you don't NEED that "Guaranteed to pass" ****.

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