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  #11  
Old Today, 05:02 PM
John Lansford John Lansford is online now
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I believe that is the correct part.

also remember to use correct polarity.
The end with the dark line is the anode or positive end.

You said you were having problem removing capacitor from board.
I use both flux and extra 60/40 solder to the area to help with melting the old solder.

There may be more parts bad they don't all necessarily have to blow up to be damaged.
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  #12  
Old Today, 05:21 PM
Tkempt200 Tkempt200 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Lansford View Post
I believe that is the correct part.

There may be more parts bad they don't all necessarily have to blow up to be damaged.
The part is not the same size nor does it have the V. It has T. As far as other parts being bad Iím not sure how Iíd determine that. Did use a small led as a test light and could get it to light up on one side but not the other with the new chip.
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  #13  
Old Today, 05:38 PM
John Lansford John Lansford is online now
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You have to measure SMD parts to get the right size.

You are finding out how hard it is to fix electronics without a circuit diagram.

If you look at my repair of the charger circuit you only see the chips that are cracked or exploded but I changed a TVS that looked perfectly fine also.

Sometimes you can look at the chips surrounding the bad capacitor and measure them for shorts or opens.
There are diodes and MOSFET switching transistors in that area. Like I said some sort of DC-DC power circuit.

Did you pay a lot for the Verus unit or did you get it very reasonable?
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  #14  
Old Today, 05:47 PM
Tkempt200 Tkempt200 is online now
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250$ is what I got it for so I donít really think it a lot. I donít really have a need for one of these. Always has been a want to have. Figured Iíd give it a try to fix one and if fixed Iíd have anther tool for my playing.
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