Ford Escape Hybrid Brake Bleed Function

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  • greasybob
    Senior Member
    • May 2008
    • 1590

    Ford Escape Hybrid Brake Bleed Function

    I have an 07 Ford Escape Hybrid here with code C1477 in the ABS module. Step one of the diagnostic is to perform the brake bleed procedure. Step 6 of the brake bleed procedure is to access the Service Brake Bleed function on the scan tool. Not there, wish it were. VIN 1FMCU59HX7KA34013. In fact C1477 is not listed in the trouble shooter. I have 11.2 software, and a mushy brake pedal. If I figure another way to bleed these I'll let you know. Any one know what the Ford IDS procedure is , similar to what the GM scanner function is ?
  • greasybob
    Senior Member
    • May 2008
    • 1590

    #2
    The data list is pretty cool though, shows the applied psi at the master cylinder and the psi at each wheel, Doesn't go over 400 psi while it sits and idles. Wish I knew what proper values were.

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    • greasybob
      Senior Member
      • May 2008
      • 1590

      #3
      Here is an example of the data with some selected pids from a little test drive around the lot. Pressure is the same at each of the wheels.
      Attached Files

      Comment

      • Rich Barton
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2007
        • 452

        #4
        I went to a class along time ago on these and they showed having to have 2 ford factory scan tools on the escape at the same time to work on the brake system.

        I ask the trainer who is going to have 2 ford factory tools to use at the same time and his reply was you can rent them
        Rich Barton
        C.R.B. Repair

        Comment

        • greasybob
          Senior Member
          • May 2008
          • 1590

          #5
          I think I found the problem, when ever you first open the door or turn the key on the ABS pump runs and this should prime or build pressure in the accumulator, it doesn't. The accumulator is where the ABS gets its pressure from, there is no vacuum booster. The only way to get pressure in the accumulator is to stand on the brake. As soon as the pump runs the next time the pressure disapates, seems like a stuck valve or something. The pressures in the graphs above would probably be ok if you put a zero behind each number. Clear the codes and C1477 comes right back with out any self tests or driving. the regerneration braking is disabled by this code.

          Comment

          • greasybob
            Senior Member
            • May 2008
            • 1590

            #6
            Well I got the brakes bled out with out a scan tool, here's what I did. I have one of those universal coolant pressure testers that uses a an inflatable bladder to seal off the radiator neck and put it on the brake reservoir and pumped it up to 30 psi. Next I cycled the key a bunch of times, this will force the pump to run and eventually build up pressure in the accumulator. Then i went around and bled each wheel individually always making sure the brake resevoir was full and the pressure was at 30 psi. after all the air was out at all the wheels I went back to cycling the key a few more times. THe first test drive went good with normal braking but it seemed the accumulator pressure was dropping so pumped the reservoir back up and did a few more key cycles. The vehicle has been good ever since. It's been driven a few days now without any codes or loss of pressure. It should be noted that if you want to replace one of these ABS units you will have to do a VIN relearn and an initiallization, neither of which is supported by Snap ON software. Here are the normal operating pressures.
            Attached Files

            Comment

            • USpMD
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2010
              • 171

              #7
              Wow ,, sorry I missed this post Bob, let see if I can help for the next time
              C1477 High Pressure Hydraulic Circuit Leakage Plausibility Failure , first step is to bleed system, you didnt state if there was a leak or repair that leed you to this code or concern, you stated the brake pedal feels mushy, this vehicle brake pedal dose not have a hydraulic connection to the brakes, it is brake by wire and uses a brake pedal emulator to give you the feel of a hydraulic brake pedal feel (bigest warranty complaint was it feels mushy requiring consumer education to normal operational feel), it uses a brake pedal travel sensor to transmit brake pedal movement and travel speed to the ABS module, And you are correct that the HECU operates when opening door or using keyfob to unlock the door, this is done to reduce system audible noise to consumer, and it also pressurizes system and performs a leak and pressure self test at this time. IDS or WDS is required to properly bleed this complex system, the tool opens and closes valves in the correct sequence the purge the air from the system, my hats off to you for doing it without IDS(wow!) Also required is a specialized hybrid bleeder, very nice tool, however you could use a pressure bleeder with enough fluid capacity and a working pressure of 35 psi, you must follow the on sceen prompts from IDS to complete the proceedure, I dont use the verus at all on Fords because I have the IDS so I couldnt tell you if it would do it, never had the time to test it out.. Ids is also required when replacing front brake pads to keep the system from pushing the pistons out when replacing the pads, as for needing two scan tools, that info is incorrect, IDS and a pressure bleeder is all you need
              "I wanna help the helpless, but I could careless about the clueless". Dennis Miller

              Comment

              • JFCIII
                Junior Member
                • Mar 2016
                • 1

                #8
                Originally posted by greasybob
                Well I got the brakes bled out with out a scan tool, here's what I did. I have one of those universal coolant pressure testers that uses a an inflatable bladder to seal off the radiator neck and put it on the brake reservoir and pumped it up to 30 psi. Next I cycled the key a bunch of times, this will force the pump to run and eventually build up pressure in the accumulator. Then i went around and bled each wheel individually always making sure the brake resevoir was full and the pressure was at 30 psi. after all the air was out at all the wheels I went back to cycling the key a few more times. THe first test drive went good with normal braking but it seemed the accumulator pressure was dropping so pumped the reservoir back up and did a few more key cycles. The vehicle has been good ever since. It's been driven a few days now without any codes or loss of pressure. It should be noted that if you want to replace one of these ABS units you will have to do a VIN relearn and an initiallization, neither of which is supported by Snap ON software. Here are the normal operating pressures.
                So I ran into the same situation today.
                Had to change both front brake hoses and the boys failed to disconnect the battery when the bled the front brakes. This depleted the accumulator and I could not build enough pressure in the accumulator by cycling the key because it also dumps during self check. The snap-on Solus pro would not perform the bleed process and luckily I found Greasybob's post.

                I followed his steps to the T and I was able to get the system to function normally again. I also had to bring it back in a second time and re-pressurize the master. The only difference was I used a Bleeder Ball instead of a rad pressure tester.

                Thanks so much for the help Greasybob.

                Comment

                • Witsend
                  Banned
                  • Nov 2012
                  • 2942

                  #9
                  I followed his steps to the T and I was able to get the system to function normally again. I also had to bring it back in a second time and re-pressurize the master. The only difference was I used a Bleeder Ball instead of a rad pressure tester.

                  Thanks so much for the help Greasybob.
                  That's good information . I think the rubber bleeder ball would cover all different size reservoir openings that have a circular cover .
                  20 years ago many ABS systems I believe had the reservoirs pressurized and you would have to turn the key off and pump the brake pedal 30 times or until the pedal became very stiff and only then it would be safe to remove the brake fluid reservoir caps.

                  Comment

                  • Crusty
                    Senior Member
                    • Dec 2007
                    • 2450

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Witsend
                    That's good information . I think the rubber bleeder ball would cover all different size reservoir openings that have a circular cover .
                    20 years ago many ABS systems I believe had the reservoirs pressurized and you would have to turn the key off and pump the brake pedal 30 times or until the pedal became very stiff and only then it would be safe to remove the brake fluid reservoir caps.
                    You're right except that the reservoir covers were fine, it was the pressure accumulators that one had to be careful with.

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