Battery maintainer

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Witsend
    Banned
    • Nov 2012
    • 2942

    Battery maintainer

    Hey I'm thinking of trying my hand with some Low Budget Chinese Jbox programming of some high end Tuetonic Turds (Beemer, Mercedes , VW, Audi off The Chinese tablet with available programming files for the VINs downloaded from off some Chinese server and just use jumper cables off a running POS Ford to stabilize the battery voltage.
    Any one have any luck? Any good horror stories?
  • Crusty
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2007
    • 2450

    #2
    NOT a stable enough voltage, and also not necessarily within the voltage window desired by the subject vehicle.

    Comment

    • Witsend
      Banned
      • Nov 2012
      • 2942

      #3
      NOT a stable enough voltage, and also not necessarily within the voltage window desired by the subject vehicle.
      Yesterday 10:37 PM
      Yeah, Just yanking folks chains. I saw a post on IATN that some guy bought a 90a one pretty affordably , but had to order the cables for it separately. The links on his post were expired.

      due to a recent discussion on battery maintainers for programming i decided i wanted to add a second programming supply/maintainer i have used the snapon battery charger based one for years with good success but i wanted the second one to be both smaller/mor...



      but I found similar one .

      Iota's world class converters and battery chargers are the ones you need for tough demanding battery maintenance.
      Last edited by Witsend; 01-06-2018, 01:27 PM.

      Comment

      • Ruston11
        Member
        • Feb 2015
        • 40

        #4
        Maintainer

        Do you think it is any good? Anyone have one?

        Comment

        • Witsend
          Banned
          • Nov 2012
          • 2942

          #5
          Do you think it is any good? Anyone have one?
          I don't really know if it would really stand the test of time in a high volume shop. It doesn't have dedicated battery cables and clamps and looks like it's got some openings on the top for dissipating heat but probably not good if dust and dirt from the shop can get in to it easy. Have to be careful using it outdoors and that no liquids spill on top. Think it can be used for automotive battery maintainer , but thinking probably more purpose built for maintaining batteries in RVs and homes with solar panels.
          Last edited by Witsend; 01-06-2018, 07:57 PM.

          Comment

          • Steve6911
            Moderator
            • Feb 2007
            • 2168

            #6
            Wit

            I have the Snapon EEBC500A it’s not cheap but brick one module because of under, or unstable voltage and you will be paying more. J2534 reflashing/programming is not for the faint of heart. You need to read and understand EVERYTHING you read and follow it to the T. You need to know what vehicles you can’t or should program with a Jbox, like any CAN Chrysler product or BMW. Also to “cheap out” on anything while programming is a roll of the dice. I have done hundreds of them, bricked some, recovered some but every time my boss tells me I have a reprogramming or a new module to install and I don’t have the factory tooling I get a knot in my stomach until it’s finished and working correctly. GOOD LUCK!

            Comment

            • Witsend
              Banned
              • Nov 2012
              • 2942

              #7
              I have the Snapon EEBC500A it’s not cheap but brick one module because of under, or unstable voltage and you will be paying more. J2534 reflashing/programming is not for the faint of heart. You need to read and understand EVERYTHING you read and follow it to the T. You need to know what vehicles you can’t or should program with a Jbox, like any CAN Chrysler product or BMW. Also to “cheap out” on anything while programming is a roll of the dice. I have done hundreds of them, bricked some, recovered some but every time my boss tells me I have a reprogramming or a new module to install and I don’t have the factory tooling I get a knot in my stomach until it’s finished and working correctly. GOOD LUCK!
              Yesterday 08:41 PM
              That EEBC500A is real nice, shielded from elements and looks like it will stand the test of time, however the output is limited to 60 amps and I think BMW states you really should use a 90 Amp maintainer for some of their cars. I think I would unplug the Radiator fans and rig a lamp bulb in between to prevent a fan circuit code and cut down on electrical demands and voltage drop spikes when those fan circuits are turned on.

              Comment

              • Steve6911
                Moderator
                • Feb 2007
                • 2168

                #8
                Wit

                As I said you should not program BMW’s with a Jbox, very few other manufacturers require higher amperage then what that charger puts out. The statement that you would start disconnecting things to lower the amperage is a BIG MISTAKE!!! Sometimes fans will run during the process, if a module doesn’t see the correct current draw who knows what will happen. Some cars are crazy sensitive to things, Saturn SC SL SW’s needed a special adapter that somehow would filter out voltage variations. If you didn’t use one you bricked the module. I know this one personally. A Volvo dealership in the area did mobile programming if you bought the parts there. A shop up the block used this service. During programming a tech at the shop opened a rear door to get a baby seat out for the owner and crashed the whole car. Car had to be towed to the dealer to recover it. And that was with factory tooling. Again you need to read and understand EVERYTHING or it will cost you BIG$$$! These are just two or the weird things that can happen, there are thousands more. You can’t assume that you can just disconnect or do something not in the instructions.
                Last edited by Steve6911; 01-08-2018, 06:29 AM.

                Comment

                • Witsend
                  Banned
                  • Nov 2012
                  • 2942

                  #9
                  Wit

                  As I said you should not program BMW’s with a Jbox, very few other manufacturers require higher amperage then what that charger requires. The statement that you would start disconnecting things to lower the amperage is a BIG MISTAKE!!! Sometimes fans will run during the process, if a module doesn’t see the correct current draw who knows what will happen. Some cars are crazy sensitive to things, Saturn SC SL SW’s needed a special adapter that somehow would filter out voltage variations. If you didn’t use one you bricked the module. I know this one personally. A Volvo dealership in the area did mobile programming if you bought the parts there. A shop up the block used this service. During programming a tech at the shop opened a rear door to get a baby seat out for the owner and crashed the whole car. Car had to be towed to the dealer to recover it. And that was with factory tooling. Again you need to read and understand EVERYTHING or it will cost you BIG$$$! These are just two or the weird things that can happen, there are thousands more. You can’t assume that you can just disconnect or do something not in the instructions.
                  Today 09:27 AM
                  I thought by law all car manufacturers have to be J2534 compliant. Lots of folk have been flashing and coding BMW and Mercedes models from the Jbox right off the Chinese Tablet from files downloaded off a Chinese server for several years already. They recently added Volkswagen, Audi. I'm sure I'm gonna screw up something sooner than later , but there's usually more than one way you can skin a cat (except a Jaguar) to reduce some spikes and amperage draw if you are working on one of the few model cars that at times might exceed 60amps when all the radiator fans kick on .Of course I wouldn't disconnect anything during the programming process, but I figure if for basic 2 wire radiator fans that kick on when the PCM goes into a Zombie limbo mode, it will cause sudden amperage draws and voltage spikes that might be reduced substantially by substituting a device of a smaller electrical load that a 60 a battery maintainer would have some left in reserve. I would probably open all the doors , and rear hatch, but snap all the latches closed , so I could open the rear door and grab my 12 pack of beer so I can get Bricked but spare the module.
                  Last edited by Witsend; 01-07-2018, 09:30 PM.

                  Comment

                  • Steve6911
                    Moderator
                    • Feb 2007
                    • 2168

                    #10
                    You do what you want, I'm just telling you what I have learned from personal experience or from people I know. When you brick the $1,000.00 BMW DME don't say I didn't warn you.

                    Comment

                    • Witsend
                      Banned
                      • Nov 2012
                      • 2942

                      #11
                      You do what you want, I'm just telling you what I have learned from personal experience or from people I know. When you brick the $1,000.00 BMW DME don't say I didn't warn you.
                      Reply With Quote
                      Thanks Steve it's all good info especially about how opening the door on a car during programming can mess things up. I probably be too afraid to risk trying to program any new DME module but might attempt a trying a salvage yard one and maybe lowering the speed limiter to <90mph on all @ssholes BMWs to be the Ultimate Slow Driving machines.

                      Comment

                      • Crusty
                        Senior Member
                        • Dec 2007
                        • 2450

                        #12
                        Where's a green THUMB when you need one-!!

                        Comment

                        • diesel71
                          Senior Member
                          • Feb 2008
                          • 921

                          #13
                          If your not going to attempt to do it right why attempt.

                          Comment

                          • Witsend
                            Banned
                            • Nov 2012
                            • 2942

                            #14
                            If your not going to attempt to do it right why attempt.
                            Reply With Quote
                            I called Solar customer service about the DLS-90 for more info about whether the thing is more suited to maintaining Solar Panel Battery Packs or can be used for automotive use for programming. He told me they work fine for automotive battery maintainer and have sold hundreds of them to BMW dealers. Since they are made in China I asked how many been cr@pping out and get returned for warranty issues and he said they haven't had any returned with issues. I just bought one with custom 4gauge 12 ft cables. I figure I'll just screw the thing on top of an old craftsman wheeled battery charger.
                            It does require a 20A service outlet because one spade is offset and thought 12 foot cables might be a better choice for reaching The German Funk down in the Trunk.

                            Comment

                            • Witsend
                              Banned
                              • Nov 2012
                              • 2942

                              #15
                              Well I received my IOTA DLS 90 12V power converter/Battery charger with 12 foot custom made 4 gauge battery cables. The power cord and plug seems nice and heavy duty and no prong was offset horizontal, however the power cord is just 3 ft long and IMO not much longer than ones found on a f@cking Taiwan toaster and most likely require a good quality heavy duty extension cord. The instructions say Do Not use extension cords.(then why is the f@ck is the power cord so short then?)
                              The instructions also say Do not mount DLS in an area with potential of dust , debris, or foreign materials entering the vents of the DLS, and also not to expose DLS unit to rain, snow, or inclement weather.
                              Sounds like pretty sh@tty unrealistic requirements for professional shop use, lol, but I figure it's gonna be a lot harder to kill it off than instructions make it sound that it is.Hooked it up to a Subaru that wouldn't start after leaving key on too long that wouldn't start and checked the voltage when I got back in 30 minutes with my beer and kerosene,and battery voltage was holding at 13.67 V , no charger sound ,fans never kicked on and didn't even feel warm to touch .(though the temperature in my garage was probably hovering around 32 degrees when I returned with the kerosene heater.Lol.
                              I thinK I want to compare the wave form of my regular Battery Charger to this as well as seeing how it maintains a steady voltage under varying loads doing Bi directional testing of hi speed radiator fans on certain cars.
                              Last edited by Witsend; 01-17-2018, 06:07 PM.

                              Comment

                              Working...