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  #111  
Old 11-11-2018, 04:41 AM
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SnapOnKid SnapOnKid is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasybob View Post
It worked !!! Thanks to Real Fixes real Fast videos for the idea. This was a 2001 Chevy 3500 Express van. Had the correct key but the ignition cylinder would not rotate, the steering column and shifter were relaxed so it must be a tumbler problem. So I rattled on it with the air hammer while putting pressure on it. Just a couple of light love taps and it turned and started. Driving it into the shop is always easier than dragging even if you have to connect three air hoses together. Once inside I could shut off the engine, disconnect the battery and rotate the cylinder again so I could remove and replace it.
I am curious, what was the cause of it not rotating? Was the Key and tumbler all worn out or was it an issue from dirt and debris over time causing it to stick?
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  #112  
Old 11-11-2018, 07:39 AM
Crusty Crusty is offline
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Originally Posted by SnapOnKid View Post
I am curious, what was the cause of it not rotating? Was the Key and tumbler all worn out or was it an issue from dirt and debris over time causing it to stick?
That old a 1-ton van, I would bet it's a work truck of some kind and it was probably both wear & tear along with dirt & grime buildup, so both.
Shake, rattle N roll.....
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  #113  
Old 11-12-2018, 07:23 PM
Witsend Witsend is offline
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Default Dodge Caravan tailpipe buzzing against trailer hitch

I thought I would stop by the local Mexican Muffler shop and let them weld a lower profile oval or a rectangular tailpipe off the resonator to go between and clear the trailer hitch but saw a lot of vehicles waiting in line. Thought I would cut off the tailpipe and heat the area with torch and smash it in or make oval to reduce cross section height to gain needed clearance then and reinstall the tailpipe with an exhaust adapter and a couple clamps, but the end of the resonator was too close to the rear of the trailer hitch , so that shot down that idea. I ended up taking my ball joint press and receiver adapter and was able to fit over the top of the tailpipe and bottom of the tubular trailer hit and smashed them together with the ball joint press and the tailpipe got indented a good half inch to obtain 3/8" clearance between the tailpipe and trailer hitch and all is well now.

Last edited by Witsend; 11-12-2018 at 07:52 PM..
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  #114  
Old 12-11-2018, 01:20 PM
Witsend Witsend is offline
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Default Ford, Mercury, Lincoln repeat brake switch/pigtail meltdown

I've had a couple repeat repairs on an 01 towncar the fuse is 25A but the thin wires though finely stranded , the gauge of the wire is only 16 gauge and after cutting and re-splicing twice before , it has gotten shorter to the last inch of length for accessibility. I found this article on web which I did a relay bypass and told the customer to get LED 3157 bulbs that are only 2 watts versus the standard 3157 28 watts apiece, and that may be enough difference to prevent another meltdown. LED bulbs might not be the best idea on cars with bulb outage idiot lights or dash messages. My guess is car manufactures will make LED bulbs standard soon , as a reason to cheapen up the wiring harnesses to even smaller diameter wires, terminals, bulb contacts, besides spare tires becoming extinct to save production costs and brag about saving a couple pounds on the new models that potentially save you $10 in fuel over 100k miles because the alternator and wiring can be made smaller and cheaper now with all LED lighting

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00114.html
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  #115  
Old 12-11-2018, 01:48 PM
BRIAN617 BRIAN617 is offline
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LED tailights in the Mercury and Lincoln (I'm sure more mfgs) require complete tailamp replacement, how smart is that? One step forward and two steps back.
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