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  #11  
Old 05-22-2018, 11:17 AM
Crusty Crusty is offline
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That's Fine and Dandy, but all that time battery charging just to practically kill it all over again with 3 carbon pile load checks and then have to recharge it back all over again for another couple hours to bring it back up, I'll pass on pile testing the Turds . I would rather run it over to advance auto , Hook up the good Midtronics tester where you remove the surface charge with your headlamps on for 15 seconds , Aim the temp probe at battery, set the CCA and it analyzes batteries pretty accurately without loading them back down again. If the battery is a POS but still turns over car I don't want to have to look for a jumper box to get the turd out of my stall if the customer ain't buying or I won't have the new battery for awhile. My HF tester for the money really isn't bad , but "is a carbon pile of sh@t'" compared to good ones with the temp probe
Manufacturers have gone to the conductive testers for warranty because so few know how to properly load test.
They're happy with 95% accuracy.
Carbon pile load testing has proven to be 100% accurate for over 40 years.

It hasn't passed a bad battery and hasn't condemned a good battery whereas the conductance testers have.

Once you KNOW the battery is good, then you don't have to wait all night to know that the drain is causing the low state of charge in the battery.
So you charge the battery a bit while you find the draw.
The load test is really no different than a few mid January cold start attempts.
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  #12  
Old 05-22-2018, 12:14 PM
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I agree that load testing a traditional "wet" battery is the way to go. however with cars coming with AGM batteries more and more, you are not supposed to load test AGM batteries. only conductance testing is allowed.

And with the future looks like lead acid batteries are going bye bye and lithium batteries are the future.

and the only way to test them would be through the diagnostic software.

I normally check for draws by putting a home made kill switch on the negative end of the battery, and hook up my DVOM in parallel. that way i can open the door, turn the key on, lights, radio, work windows ect, ect. and then open the kill switch, thus putting the dvom as the sole path for current. and wait and measure. anything over .060 amps after a hour is generally a draw for me.

then the real fun begins..
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  #13  
Old 05-22-2018, 02:39 PM
Crusty Crusty is offline
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I agree that load testing a traditional "wet" battery is the way to go. however with cars coming with AGM batteries more and more, you are not supposed to load test AGM batteries. only conductance testing is allowed.

And with the future looks like lead acid batteries are going bye bye and lithium batteries are the future.

and the only way to test them would be through the diagnostic software.

I normally check for draws by putting a home made kill switch on the negative end of the battery, and hook up my DVOM in parallel. that way i can open the door, turn the key on, lights, radio, work windows ect, ect. and then open the kill switch, thus putting the dvom as the sole path for current. and wait and measure. anything over .060 amps after a hour is generally a draw for me.

then the real fun begins..
Yep. Once you KNOW you have a draw, installing a "knife switch" and going to direct amperage through a DVOM is the way to go. Sure, you can use a scope IF it shows direct amperage as the Vantage-PRO does, but is it really necessary-??
There was a knife switch that came with the old white case ALLEN diagnostic scope circa 1975. I still have it and it works.
By using the knife switch, the circuit never goes "open", even for a moment. It is simply redirected through the meter in parallel immediately.

As for AGM and lithium batteries, yes they can be load tested and they can be charged as well. You just have to be not as aggressive with the amperages and voltages.
ANY battery is using the same fundamental technology of dis-similar compounds to create an electromotive force.
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  #14  
Old 05-22-2018, 04:52 PM
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Agm, wet, gel are lead acid batteries at the core, lithium batteries are totally different, you cannot load test a 500 volt hybrid battery to test it,

Charging them is by very specific voltages
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  #15  
Old 05-27-2018, 07:08 PM
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Witsend, You still have this pile???

By any chance, does it have a bluetooth module, garage door opener, map lights lamp thingy on the roof by the rear view mirror? is there a circuit board when you pull it down?
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  #16  
Old 05-28-2018, 08:38 AM
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Witsend, You still have this pile???

By any chance, does it have a bluetooth module, garage door opener, map lights lamp thingy on the roof by the rear view mirror? is there a circuit board when you pull it down?
Oops, Actually no , The Honda Odyssey is gone, I thought you were referring to the 03 Grand Marquis with the working alternator with battery lamp on

Last edited by Witsend; 05-28-2018 at 08:55 AM..
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  #17  
Old 05-28-2018, 08:55 AM
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Yes there is an inoperative overhead display; Why ?
The Honda/Acura's are famous for drawing the battery down at that location. Unplug it and see if you have a change.
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  #18  
Old 05-28-2018, 10:06 AM
Witsend Witsend is offline
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The Honda/Acura's are famous for drawing the battery down at that location. Unplug it and see if you have a change.
Thanks, I was unable to replicate any external parasitic draw after putting a 2 year old $20 one in it from local salvage yard for the interim in the event she does come across her Napa receipt to get prorated credit toward a new replacement one but she couldn't find it within the salvage yard 7 day battery credit or exchange period , so she's stuck with the used battery that so far has been working fine . After clearing codes from auto scan it did have a Seat Heater U1290 with Permanent DTC status with description "Climate control lost communication with seat heater control unit "Maybe she's just got sum big f@t twerkin Azz that disconnects the seat heater bus at times , who knows, who cares , no problem found

Last edited by Witsend; 05-28-2018 at 10:33 AM..
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