Practical Tips

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  • SnapOnKid
    replied
    Originally posted by David Green

    I have them, they don't work on all pulleys, in fact I've always struggled using them.
    Good to know. I haven't seen anyone use them so I wasn't sure.

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  • David Green
    replied
    Originally posted by SnapOnKid
    @greasybob have you ever tried one of these gadgets on a stretch belt?


    FWI OTC makes one too.
    I have them, they don't work on all pulleys, in fact I've always struggled using them.

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  • greasybob
    replied
    I'm always looking for better tool storage for more efficiency. In the past I've used the pliers racks for storage but things never seemed to stay organized and weren't very visible. The goal is to minimize the time spent searching for and retrieving tools and then putting things back. I prefer to keep things in carts to keep things portable as I work in many locations in and outside of the shop. I put a couple of 2 X 8s in the bottom of my cart and drilled 3/4 inch holes with 1 1/2 and 2 inch spacings and put the pliers and various grabbers in handles first. I found that keeping tools vertical not only makes better use of space but also increases visibility. First time posting in this new format so lets see if this works
    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
    This gallery has 2 photos.

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  • SnapOnKid
    replied
    @greasybob have you ever tried one of these gadgets on a stretch belt?


    FWI OTC makes one too.
    Attached Files

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  • greasybob
    replied
    Oops, pictures. Hope I got them sized right
    Attached Files

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  • greasybob
    replied
    Pro Master AC Belt

    Another stretch belt that takes 3 hands to install. A 2015 Ram Pro Master 2500 with a 3.0 Diesel. The stretch belt part is bad enough but to add to that is the crank bolt is inaccessible unless you lower the engine or have a very low profile socket. Solution ? I used a small hose pincher to hold the belt on the crank pulley and used my remote starter switch to bump the engine over until the belt was in place. Also used a pry bar to keep the belt on the idler during the process.

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  • greasybob
    replied
    Ever try to put one of those stretch belts on a Subaru AC compressor ? Quite a stretch. I found the perfect tool for the job. I got these release tools for DEF tank type connectors from Snappy a while back. It has the perfect gap to slide over the belt and the crank pulley. First loop the belt around the compressor then slide the tool over the belt and the crank pulley to hold the belt in place and turn the engine over until belt is on both pulleys then just walk it over to the correct grooves while turning the engine. No damage was noticed on the belt after installation. I could see this working for lots of other applications. This vehicle was a 2010 Forester 2.5.
    Attached Files

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  • greasybob
    replied
    Do you need to remove dip stick tube because it's cracked, rusted or rotted ? And you can't get a grip on it without crushing it. Cut it off at a solid spot and insert an 8mm bolt so your vice grip doesn't collapse it. Then you can twist, tug and pull on it. If it rusted to close to the engine block to get a grip then try threading a rod into it and use a nut and a collar to try and pull it out. Sorry no picture doing it that way.
    Attached Files

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  • BRIAN617
    replied
    Originally posted by greasybob
    Got a roll pin in a ridiculously hard place to get a swing at it ? No problem, just use your air hammer with a long anvil and a roll pin punch. Shown is a Polaris Ranger 900 front drive shaft at front differential.
    I have drove a many of those out. I usually drive them out from the bottom through the hole in the skid plate.

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  • greasybob
    replied
    Got a roll pin in a ridiculously hard place to get a swing at it ? No problem, just use your air hammer with a long anvil and a roll pin punch. Shown is a Polaris Ranger 900 front drive shaft at front differential.
    Attached Files

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  • greasybob
    replied
    17 f350 tranny lines

    Recently had to change the tranny lines on a 2017 F350 6.7 Power Stroke. ShopKey instructions have you removing the starter for this job. There is even a multi media presentation in ShopKey where you can watch a Ford technician fight with the lines for 7 minutes trying to remove them. A better way, remove the steal support to totally separate the lines and remove and install the new lines one at a time. No starter removal required and lines will slip right in without a fight. Removing the oil filter housing is still required. Just reinstall the tranny line support once you have them in position.
    Attached Files

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  • David Green
    replied
    Over the pond we have a similar design. What I do with ours is pull on the longest run of the belt by hand to compress the spring, and then, using a round pin normally about 3 mm diameter over here there is a hole in the spring mounting that the pin locates through, then the belt can be removed/replaced.

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  • diesel71
    replied
    Originally posted by greasybob
    If you ever run into one of those belt tensioners with an external coil spring that requires a special tool to compress for removal and installation no worries a couple of hose clamps will do the job. 2012 Buick lacrosse 2.4 hybrid shown.
    sweet, thanks for sharing. i used a c clamp once it was sketchy but worked.

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  • greasybob
    replied
    If you ever run into one of those belt tensioners with an external coil spring that requires a special tool to compress for removal and installation no worries a couple of hose clamps will do the job. 2012 Buick lacrosse 2.4 hybrid shown.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • greasybob
    replied
    A better way of hub removal. I'm sure I'm not the first to do this but I'll post it for those who haven't seen it. Just pound out a wheel stud and use a 12 or 14 mm threaded bolt and nut to push the wheel bearing out of the spindle (knuckle). If there isn't room to get the stud out, just cut it since the bearing will have new studs.
    Attached Files

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