![]() |
Diagnostic Home . Diagnostic Product Index . Customer Care |
|
You are currently NOT logged in to a registered account. Some functions of Snap-on Diagnostics Product Forums will not be available to you if your are not logged in as a registered member. For a limited time only, registrationto Snap-on Diagnostics Product Forums to Snap-on Diagnostics Product Forums is !! FREE !! Select the **REGISTER NOW** link to register for your FREE Snap-on Diagnostics Product Forums account!! |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#141
|
|||
|
|||
![]() I have drove a many of those out. I usually drive them out from the bottom through the hole in the skid plate.
|
#142
|
![]() Do you need to remove dip stick tube because it's cracked, rusted or rotted ? And you can't get a grip on it without crushing it. Cut it off at a solid spot and insert an 8mm bolt so your vice grip doesn't collapse it. Then you can twist, tug and pull on it. If it rusted to close to the engine block to get a grip then try threading a rod into it and use a nut and a collar to try and pull it out. Sorry no picture doing it that way.
|
#143
|
![]() Ever try to put one of those stretch belts on a Subaru AC compressor ? Quite a stretch. I found the perfect tool for the job. I got these release tools for DEF tank type connectors from Snappy a while back. It has the perfect gap to slide over the belt and the crank pulley. First loop the belt around the compressor then slide the tool over the belt and the crank pulley to hold the belt in place and turn the engine over until belt is on both pulleys then just walk it over to the correct grooves while turning the engine. No damage was noticed on the belt after installation. I could see this working for lots of other applications. This vehicle was a 2010 Forester 2.5.
|
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|