Shop Stream Connect

[David Green]

Hi everyone,

Anyone know how to upload Shop Stream Connect files, movies and images to the forum for discussion?

Thanks

[Joe Rappa]

When you post, scroll down past the "Submit Reply" button.
You'll see a "Manage Attachments" button.
Open it and load the file that you want to attach.
It will appear like the one I attached.

Joe

[David Green]

Thanks Joe I'll give it a go

Seems I have a problem with my laptop, shop stream is there on my desktop but cannot find it using attachments.

[Witsend]

Thanks Joe I'll give it a go

Ok, Just don't be getting all St. Patti LeBelle'd about doing it

[Crusty]

Thanks Joe I'll give it a go

Seems I have a problem with my laptop, shop stream is there on my desktop but cannot find it using attachments.

Hi David. I save all my files in MY OWN folders named so I can find them, then tell SSC where to find them.
That way if SSC has any issues, the files are in another area.

To upload here, just follow the direction Joe gave you and then "browse" where it tells you to and select your folder to find the files you wish to upload.

I also save all my saved files on other computers and USB sticks so they'll never get wiped out if the worst happens on one laptop.

[David Green]

Ok, Just don't be getting all St. Patti LeBelle'd about doing it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQa7SvVCdZk

Watched it, had a mars and forgot what I was doing here after Moulin Rouge LOL

I am definitely in the wrong job I am

[David Green]

Hi David. I save all my files in MY OWN folders named so I can find them, then tell SSC where to find them.
That way if SSC has any issues, the files are in another area.

To upload here, just follow the direction Joe gave you and then "browse" where it tells you to and select your folder to find the files you wish to upload.

I also save all my saved files on other computers and USB sticks so they'll never get wiped out if the worst happens on one laptop.

Hi Crusty how the job over the pond

Thanks for the above, however, I am confident that the problem is my laptop, not so much a fault but too much data stored and laptop running at maximum speed 2mb memory. My printer also defaults to paper size for envelopes, it never used to, so I must back up all my data and see if the memory works better.

SSC is there, the files are there, but after searching for them from any website attachment file, no chance they are invisible. Definitely overload I thinks, need to sort it quick I have some interesting graphs I would like to share and discuss the content.

I'll sort it as quick as I can.

Been offered a phone deal where I get free international phone calls for just £5 + VAT a month, you never know I could ring you up with telephone diagnostic problems of UK cars LOL

ABS diagnosis went well back in 2011/12 LOL, still working fine

David

[David Green]

SSC Files

Looks like I have got there in the end.

In the first graph data User001 - the engine is at idle, the DTC counter records no codes as the coolant temperature rises from 54 to 63 degrees C. The battery voltage is seen at about 12.3V, then during starter cranking as would be expected the voltage drops to about 10V. Up to now everything appears normal.

NOTE - some graph data may be in a different order than my reasoning here explaining them.

The vehicle reference voltage is shown as 5V, this I understand to be the supply voltage seen by the ECM.

The mass fuel desired (mg) after starting and engine at idle appears to be using approx 4 mg.

As the engine is warming up, the cylinder head temperature voltage V starts off at 1.63V and reduces towards 1.29 volts, this I believe is telling me that a NTC sensor is fitted and working correctly.

The malfunction indicator warning lamp is off.

The coolant temperature sensor voltage starts off at 1.63V and reduces as the temperature rises towards 1.29 volts, again this shows a NTC sensor operation working correctly.

The EGR valve position voltage starts to operate at data frame number 20 and ends at data frame number 55, nothing happens from that point onwards.

The EGR duty cycle percentage operates in the same data frame range as does the EGR valve position (mm).

The crank time (SEC) I am confused with, the graph is linear starting at data frame 17 onwards to a maximum of 126?

What does that mean?

The Secondary Air Monitor starts to operate from data frame number 26 is switching on and off until about data frame 53 when it switches off altogether.

Completed OBD II Trip is not registering any codes and is saying NO, I assume this means its off.

The MAP (kpa) is switching on and off from data frame number 17 until the end of the graph at data frame number 175, two things I have noticed here which may or may not be a problem are;

The peaks of the graph are sometimes spikes and other times the peaks are flattened off square, what does this mean?

There are differences in the width of some of the trace, I am assuming this is normal and not registering any faults?

The intake air temperature degrees C started at 14 degrees C and dropped three times to 13 degrees C, then increased to 15 degrees C before dropping back to 14 degrees C and then straight back to 15 degrees C where it stayed for the remainder of the drive cycle.

If anyone sees anything unusual with the MAP sensor voltage graph please advise?

The accelerator pedal position 1 (mv) seemed to spike at about 15 data frames, and the accelerator pedal position II (mv) that I thought normally was a mirror image of accelerator pedal position I (mv) but in opposite mode seriously seems different here?

The accelerator pedal position (mv) also provides two more graphs, both of which are exactly the same and am I right to assume here that the accelerator pedal has been depressed three times at data frame numbers 9,69 and 90?

The misfire count advises that the engine has not misfired during this drive cycle.

I won't talk about the other graphs until we have discussed the above graphs, I am sorry there is a lot of information presented but would like any feedback from anyone who understands the data.

[Crusty]

YUP-!! they loaded up here OK and I opened the USER001.SCM movie.

It might be easier for some of us "across the pond" if we knew which vehicle your .SCM movies are from-???

We may not be familiar with the particular vehicle but hey, the more baseline info we have, the better.

About the only thing I can comment on is the APP sensors.
Yes, all 4 PIDS are showing mv rather than what would make sense to me. (I may be wrong but...)

I suspect they should be showing volts on 2, and possibly either percentage on the second 2, or possibly an average on the second two.

As for the high initial readings, the ECM is setting itself at an INITIAL start and fire position, then as soon as it sees a cranking RPM, it then sees and adjusts the other parameters as the block/learn/programming desires it to change to. I quite often see an initial injector pulse width at key-on-engine-off at 53.0 milliseconds (on gas engines) and as soon as the rpms from cranking are recognized, and the engine fires up, the injectors drop to around 6 or 8 milliseconds, then within 2 or three second the injector on time fine tunes down to 3 or 4 milliseconds.

To better understand the Accelerator Pedal Position sensors (APP), every vehicle I've seen uses two for reduncancy.
On some, it's one starts high and the other starts low.
Then there are two strategies, one starts high and goes low from closed throttle to wide open throttle, and the other starts low and goes high from closed throttle to wide open throttle. In other words they're opposite from each other.
On some vehicles, the other strategy is to start at 1.0-v and climb to perhaps 3.5 volts at wide open throttle, with the second sensor starting at around 2.5-v and climbing to 5.0 volts at wide open throttle. I may be off on the exact numbers but one strategy is OPPOSITE and the other is PARALLEL but at different voltages.

Try it with Key-On-Engine-Off and look at both sensors. Then slowly move the throttle from closed to wide open and graph the two sensors. You may find a better understanding of how they use the two sensors so the ECM can recognize that the two sensors should be in "synch" with each other.

I'm used to seeing the APP sensors in the pedal inside the cab and then the two actual accelerator or throttle position (TPS) sensors out under the hood built into the actual throttle body on the engine giving a feedback response to the APP commands.

HTH.... and yes, you got the uploads just fine.

[David Green]

Thanks Crusty, in the list you'll see a registration number, that is the vehicle, it's a Ford Transit 2.0 Di (diesel turbo).

On one of the listed graphs there is a very long CRANK (SEC) waveform, not sure why its so long, but other graphs show the waveform much better for some reason?

Take note of the cylinder head temperature V and engine temperature degrees C readings, when the van is running, it seems to run ok, the van runs until the engine temperature reaches 124 degrees, then the engine petered out, it will restart after a few seconds, rough but smooths out again, then each time the temperature achieves 124 degrees C the engine cuts out again.

No coolant violent operation, steam is (NOT) noticed but the fans are running, the only hot part of the cooling system is the top hose and engine, everything else appears cold.

I have removed the water pump and found the spline to be worn, it is driven off the power steering pump, which seems to be full of swarf, see attachments. I hope the problem is caused by the poor pump operation.

[Crusty]

I figured it was a diesel and I didn't notice the Ford Transit, thanks.

I ain't no diesel expert but 124-C is 255-F and it wouldn't surprise me that the fuel may be vaporizing (???) or the vehicle goes into some sort of self protection mode when it gets that hot.
The pics of the water pump are a bit fuzzy but what I can see sure don't look pretty (Warren Zevon, ain't that pretty at all-!! LMAO)
As long as there is coolant in the motor, the hoses should get some pressure, especially once it reaches 95-C or warmer.
I never liked the idea that some manufacturers put the thermostat in the lower hose area as I was always taught that heat rises-!! If the engine gets hot and the upper hose gets hot, but everything else is cold, could the radiator be plugged up with the crud (swarf-??) and not flowing-?? Could the thermostat be staying stuck closed-??
At what temperature do the fans start running-? If they're running all the time, are there any codes stored and is it possibly going into a "fail soft" cooling fan command-?


Regarding the movies, when I save and store my screen shots and movies, I create different folders for different data groups (within each vehicle folders). That way I have a better understanding of what PIDS I should see in any particular data group, such as "Engine Data-1", or "Misfire Data", or "EVAP Data".
Not being a diesel guy and not knowing the European Ford Transit 2.0-Turbo Diesel at all, not much I can say other than it appears that the cooling system is "knackered"......LMAO.

[David Green]

I figured it was a diesel and I didn't notice the Ford Transit, thanks.

I ain't no diesel expert but 124-C is 255-F and it wouldn't surprise me that the fuel may be vaporizing (???) or the vehicle goes into some sort of self protection mode when it gets that hot.
The pics of the water pump are a bit fuzzy but what I can see sure don't look pretty (Warren Zevon, ain't that pretty at all-!! LMAO)
As long as there is coolant in the motor, the hoses should get some pressure, especially once it reaches 95-C or warmer.
I never liked the idea that some manufacturers put the thermostat in the lower hose area as I was always taught that heat rises-!! If the engine gets hot and the upper hose gets hot, but everything else is cold, could the radiator be plugged up with the crud (swarf-??) and not flowing-?? Could the thermostat be staying stuck closed-??
At what temperature do the fans start running-? If they're running all the time, are there any codes stored and is it possibly going into a "fail soft" cooling fan command-?


Regarding the movies, when I save and store my screen shots and movies, I create different folders for different data groups (within each vehicle folders). That way I have a better understanding of what PIDS I should see in any particular data group, such as "Engine Data-1", or "Misfire Data", or "EVAP Data".
Not being a diesel guy and not knowing the European Ford Transit 2.0-Turbo Diesel at all, not much I can say other than it appears that the cooling system is "knackered"......LMAO.

I thought that Ford among other vehicle manufacturers had now starting to install cylinder head temperature sensors and send that signal back to the ECM to monitor when the engine is too hot, hence shut off the engine until it cools to prevent engine damage.

In the commercial world of diesel engine installations you can find that manufacturers fit up to seven thermostats at various locations around the cooling system, which as we know serve more than one purpose.

Don't know exactly what temperature the fan(s) kick in, but I think the fan actually starts operation slow and as temperature increases the fan speed increases, but the fan does run. No codes stored at all, its not an electrical fault as such, it is a safety mechanism I thought.

Bought a new power steering pump and a new water pump yesterday, wow, what a difference to the splines, for a van that has only covered 69K miles I am not impressed at all, my van same setup has covered 137K miles and service history does not reflect the van ever having a coolant pump or power steering pump fitted. I wonder if the mileage is genuine?

[Crusty]

Diesels can be a PITA to get them up to full temperature. Are you getting enough FLOW now so that the entire radiator is getting warm-??

Mileage might be fudged, but lack of maintenance, changing out the fluid (or lack of changing fluid) can screw up any engine.

[Witsend]

It[s bad enough that GM decided to drive a power steering pump off the back of a camshaft on an Ecowreck gas motor before they went to the electric Power assist, but Ford decided to go one better an run both an Oreo Cookie set up with a water pump sandwiched between them ?