The auto software is a joke and not much help at all ,
Repair software just describes the basic process of disconnecting booster hose unbolting the master cylinder, removing brake switch, push rod pin , and 4 nuts under the dash , leaving you pretty much on your own to F@cking figure out what else needs to be pulled off out of the way.
Had I known this sooner I would likely have been able to at minimum up sell the the 120k Iridium plugs, valve cover gasket, and VVT intake solenoid the Turd likely needs because of a CEL code.
I initially pulled the battery tray and throttle body , but no way.
Progressed to the remove the wiper cowl assembly, loosened brake tubes at the HCU and pivoted lines 90 degrees, still no go.
Ultimately had to remove intake plenum and maneuver heater hoses away from firewall, and was finally able to get the power brake booster out. Real PITA
Repair software just describes the basic process of disconnecting booster hose unbolting the master cylinder, removing brake switch, push rod pin , and 4 nuts under the dash , leaving you pretty much on your own to F@cking figure out what else needs to be pulled off out of the way.Had I known this sooner I would likely have been able to at minimum up sell the the 120k Iridium plugs, valve cover gasket, and VVT intake solenoid the Turd likely needs because of a CEL code.
I initially pulled the battery tray and throttle body , but no way.
Progressed to the remove the wiper cowl assembly, loosened brake tubes at the HCU and pivoted lines 90 degrees, still no go.
Ultimately had to remove intake plenum and maneuver heater hoses away from firewall, and was finally able to get the power brake booster out. Real PITA
I don't know if there be away around plenum removal if I took the master completely off instead of loosening the 2 line tube nuts at HCU and moving lines 90 degrees forward and snug back up leaving master still attached. I just didn't want to chance deal with ABS bleed and plenum be safer bet for me.
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