Dont charge me bro!

[Orevin]

Sometimes you guys amaze me! Nice work Greasy. So much for the AC voltage theory. I would like to see another test of such equipment.
GMs info reads :Battery should be fully charged and between 12-14 volts. Also, that a battery charger should not be used.
Again, does anyone have any reasonable or inexpensive methods? What about a new, fully charged, large capacity, car battery "jumped" to the car's already charged battery? (NO AC volts!) If the lights are on, pull the fuse or put on the e-brake! I have a high speed DSL connection. Whats the longest flsh you've seen? Whats average? The Mazdas i used to do took only 10-20 minutes to re-flash the PCM.

A jumper battery or pack might work on vehicles that don't care for a certain voltage and where the reflash doesn't take long. A reflash on a domestic vehicle shouldn't take more than 30 minutes, usually less. Nissan on the other hand, can take four hours or more with a J2534 device (my record: over 10 hours on a 2000 Maxima, was successful though). I would recommend to invest in a quality power supply now, than to have to deal with a control module that's a brick and a disappointed customer later.

The Midtronics PSC-550 works very well, but it's pricey. This model is sold under another brand as well, for less $$$. I can't find the info right now, I'll look for it later.

[Orevin]

IOTA makes the power supplies sold by Midtronics. They sell them under their name as well. The DLS-55 (Midtronics PSC-550) can be had for under $200 and produces a clean voltage. I have the PSC-550 and here are my scope captures for it (check the min/max measurements):

20110301-0916-1.jpg


zoomed out:
20110301-0928-1.jpg

That's what I call clean!

[diesel71]

there is some good information in this thread. Id like to add one experience i had. the vehicle was a 2007 6.0 diesel with a bad ficm module, i have programed so many of theses i lost count so this was just another programing so i thought . i hooked up a old battery charger and started my work about half way threw the programing the scroll bar stoped and the programing froze. the charger was set at 12 volts low slow charge 2 amps. when programing you are commanded to turn the key from off to on several times. with each key on the glow plugs are commanded on and draw about 22amps each for a total of 180amps every time you key on. what happend was the batterys were week and the charger could not keep up. fried the ficm module at $716 bucks. had to buy a new ficm out of my pocket
one bad programing cost more than a new eebc500 that is set-up for reprograming. after this experience i wouldnt use a jumper pack or anything else if you want to be safe.

[Trindaddy]

Whoa! Greasy, you better check that expensive charger out. Thanks Orevin and Diesel. Your right, that IS clean, and under 200$! That sounds like what i need. I will start looking. Shame on you S.O. for not offering something to do this for under 670$.

[greasybob]

I'll have to admit, a pulsating charge does seem to be a strange way of maintaining a steady voltage. Maybe mine is in need of an update and is an older unit that was sitting on the shelf for a while. Any one else out there that has a EEBC500 that has a wave form, voltage and amperage to share. Any Snap On reps that would care to chime in here ?

[Caliber]

I work for a International dealership. IH had us using the midtronics PCS550 for re-flashing, 6 months ago they sent Duracell's 25amp auto charger- http://www.duracellpower.com/battery...-chargers.aspx
They said the 550 would run too high of voltage in certain applications. I've only done diesels, but the Duracell has worked flawlessly. It has 2,6,12,25 amp settings.
I don't know how cars are done, IH has a special switch box that connects to the batteries and a lead that plugs into the fuse that powers the ECM. It has a LED on it, that lights up when the voltage goes too high or too low. Your to interpret the LED and either turn on or off the charger.With the Duracell at 6 amps the LED stays off. I've never seen it come on for Hi volt unlike the 550.
The main reason for the box is to only power up the module that you are re-flashing, this way any other modules don't power up and interfere on the data line.

[Dr Dave]

Battery voltage and flashing

what is the proper method of maintaining battery volts w/ flashing? Many vids Ive seen use a jump box.I was at dealerships for most of my career .I flashed alot Dodge jeep and Suzuki ,but I don,t recall using a specail charger.But I just read a TSB for a 2004 dodge Gr Caravan and it said hook a NPN charger up. Now I remember the circuitry term from Chrysler electic classes ,but as far as a chargers which ones qualify ? At the dealer level we were issued instructions mostly in the form of TSB or training on how to and proper equiptment herhaps this is why we have so many problems after market we do not have the proper instuctions or equiptment,in the after market its funny seems like alot of speculation mis cummunication and here say.Im not saying or sujesting anything but maybe check other OEM tsb's for answers ...PNP Charger?

[ratchetman]

we don't reflash here, but we had two EEBC500 that we returned. They were both charging at 16v for over 1/2 hour at the end of the cycle. These units are made by schumacher. Their man told me that this was normal and modern batteries needed that voltage at the end to be fully charged. That's bs because the dtac never goes over 14.5v toward the end, as the fellow that programed the dtac told me it should. Those POS EEBC500s boiled lots of batteries in our shop that the dtac never would. Impedance test results got worse for every battery we charged on those things. We will not recommend or ever use that unit.

[Trindaddy]

I have found the Midtronics PSC-550S Kit (w/cover/carrier) for around 350-400$. The Iota version apppears to be made by Midtronics, but it is built to be mounted (has sharp metal brackets on sides), doesn't have a tote bag, and has some diff features. One feature of the Iota is a small jumper on the unit that appears to change the voltage output. No price on site given.
The Baum mentioned in this post is shown in the link given but i can not find it on Baum's site. Instead, they advertise a Deautronic DBL800. This odd looking charger appears to be controlled by a laptop via serial cable?! Very poor description at the site. No price listed either.
After looking and reading about the EBC500, I've decided i wont be spending that much for this tool. I havent seen a 6v battery since i cant remember, ditto for 24V trucks (which i will never work on), i dont like the size/stand/roll-around idea either. Worst is the price, as usual.

SNAP ON TOOL IDEA ALERT------FREE DESIGN IDEA------S.O. NOTICE-------



Small, portable, weather ready, designated battery maintainer for flash programming 12v systems that is affordable, simplistic, durable, produces a clean DC output and maybe has a few selectable output voltages.