Practical Tips

[greasybob]

Have you had to replace a rear upper control arm on a Chevy Traverse or similar ? Wasn't a bad job when they were new. Now that rust has had a chance to get at these the cam adjusting bolt is likely to be frozen on the control arm bushing. With no chance to get a direct hit on it with an air hammer or punch what I do is remove the rear nut and put some shims or washers behind the front nut and draw the bolt through one step at a time adding shims as the threads run out. Time consuming but it works without damaging anything.

[Witsend]

Have you had to replace a rear upper control arm on a Chevy Traverse or similar ? Wasn't a bad job when they were new. Now that rust has had a chance to get at these the cam adjusting bolt is likely to be frozen on the control arm bushing. With no chance to get a direct hit on it with an air hammer or punch what I do is remove the rear nut and put some shims or washers behind the front nut and draw the bolt through one step at a time adding shims as the threads run out. Time consuming but it works without damaging anything.

Good tip . Looks like those rear Camber bolts are threaded on each end with a removable nut on both ends (the front and rear sides)so not really a true typical camber adjuster bolt you can just expect to rotate from a fixed bolt head on one side and force a ecentric to turn and make the arm angle change. It seems more like just two floating Ecentrics on Stud. Good luck rotating them from the little hex at the end of the stud

[ephratah service center]

filter sockets

Witts End I bought a set of these sockets they work great for the Ecotec as well as a lot of other filters

[Witsend]

Witts End I bought a set of these sockets they work great for the Ecotec as well as a lot of other filters
10-24-2018 09:43 PM

Thanks they look more comprehensive in size assortment and look much more robust than the aluminum alloy set I got from Harbor freight and broke one trying to modify to work on a 1.8 2014 RAV 4. Now his filter housing just spins out using the 3/8" drive drain insert in the housing bottom of the plastic housing that is in there real tight and shall remain there. Most of the spin on itty bitty oil filters I just been using the variable size 3 finger claw grabber with a 3/8 swivel and ratchet wrench with extension.

[greasybob]

stuck ignition cylinder

It worked !!! Thanks to Real Fixes real Fast videos for the idea. This was a 2001 Chevy 3500 Express van. Had the correct key but the ignition cylinder would not rotate, the steering column and shifter were relaxed so it must be a tumbler problem. So I rattled on it with the air hammer while putting pressure on it. Just a couple of light love taps and it turned and started. Driving it into the shop is always easier than dragging even if you have to connect three air hoses together. Once inside I could shut off the engine, disconnect the battery and rotate the cylinder again so I could remove and replace it.

[SnapOnKid]

It worked !!! Thanks to Real Fixes real Fast videos for the idea. This was a 2001 Chevy 3500 Express van. Had the correct key but the ignition cylinder would not rotate, the steering column and shifter were relaxed so it must be a tumbler problem. So I rattled on it with the air hammer while putting pressure on it. Just a couple of light love taps and it turned and started. Driving it into the shop is always easier than dragging even if you have to connect three air hoses together. Once inside I could shut off the engine, disconnect the battery and rotate the cylinder again so I could remove and replace it.

I am curious, what was the cause of it not rotating? Was the Key and tumbler all worn out or was it an issue from dirt and debris over time causing it to stick?

[Crusty]

I am curious, what was the cause of it not rotating? Was the Key and tumbler all worn out or was it an issue from dirt and debris over time causing it to stick?

That old a 1-ton van, I would bet it's a work truck of some kind and it was probably both wear & tear along with dirt & grime buildup, so both.
Shake, rattle N roll.....

[Witsend]

Dodge Caravan tailpipe buzzing against trailer hitch

I thought I would stop by the local Mexican Muffler shop and let them weld a lower profile oval or a rectangular tailpipe off the resonator to go between and clear the trailer hitch but saw a lot of vehicles waiting in line. Thought I would cut off the tailpipe and heat the area with torch and smash it in or make oval to reduce cross section height to gain needed clearance then and reinstall the tailpipe with an exhaust adapter and a couple clamps, but the end of the resonator was too close to the rear of the trailer hitch , so that shot down that idea. I ended up taking my ball joint press and receiver adapter and was able to fit over the top of the tailpipe and bottom of the tubular trailer hit and smashed them together with the ball joint press and the tailpipe got indented a good half inch to obtain 3/8" clearance between the tailpipe and trailer hitch and all is well now.

[Witsend]

Ford, Mercury, Lincoln repeat brake switch/pigtail meltdown

I've had a couple repeat repairs on an 01 towncar the fuse is 25A but the thin wires though finely stranded , the gauge of the wire is only 16 gauge and after cutting and re-splicing twice before , it has gotten shorter to the last inch of length for accessibility. I found this article on web which I did a relay bypass and told the customer to get LED 3157 bulbs that are only 2 watts versus the standard 3157 28 watts apiece, and that may be enough difference to prevent another meltdown. LED bulbs might not be the best idea on cars with bulb outage idiot lights or dash messages. My guess is car manufactures will make LED bulbs standard soon , as a reason to cheapen up the wiring harnesses to even smaller diameter wires, terminals, bulb contacts, besides spare tires becoming extinct to save production costs and brag about saving a couple pounds on the new models that potentially save you $10 in fuel over 100k miles because the alternator and wiring can be made smaller and cheaper now with all LED lighting

http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00114.html

[BRIAN617]

LED tailights in the Mercury and Lincoln (I'm sure more mfgs) require complete tailamp replacement, how smart is that? One step forward and two steps back.

[greasybob]

This may be an old trick but I never really thought about it until yesterday, I always used a strap or something similar. If you need to rotate the engine forward or back and keep it there for access just remove the anti rotational mounts and with the transmission in park (or gear for a manual trans) push the vehicle in that direction and chock the tires.

[kirkbarrow.garage]

LED tailights in the Mercury and Lincoln (I'm sure more mfgs) require complete tailamp replacement, how smart is that? One step forward and two steps back.

I had a defective rear light assembly on an Aston Martin DB7, and yes it did require complete replacement unit at a cost of around $904 which is a lot of $$$ just to fix a rear light problem

[Witsend]

This may be an old trick but I never really thought about it until yesterday, I always used a strap or something similar. If you need to rotate the engine forward or back and keep it there for access just remove the anti rotational mounts and with the transmission in park (or gear for a manual trans) push the vehicle in that direction and chock the tires.

Nice tip Bob, will try that next time

I had a defective rear light assembly on an Aston Martin DB7, and yes it did require complete replacement unit at a cost of around $904 which is a lot of $$$ just to fix a rear light problem

Sounds like you you would need to be some Drunk on your @sston Sammy Dayvus Deon Martin to ever pay that much for a tail lamp assy

[kirkbarrow.garage]

Nice tip Bob, will try that next time


Sounds like you you would need to be some Drunk on your @sston Sammy Dayvus Deon Martin to ever pay that much for a tail lamp assy

Well, that's the problem with LED tail lamps, they're gonna cost you plenty of $$$$$$$$$$

[Witsend]

Stubborn Midwest rusted rotors

Usually rusty rotors on cars just pop off pulling outwards while rattling them with the air hammer with a flat punch between the studs but some can be a real SOB to get to come off (usually on larger vehicles). If after a couple additional smacks with a small sledge hammer don't do the trick , I don't want to persist and unnecessarily ruin the front hub bearings. A couple cuts with a reciprocating saw (or preferably a portable band saw ) 180 degrees across from each other , then a smack with a hammer, they crack right in two and come right off. The cast iron typically cuts pretty easy, but the stock rotors on this Chevy HHR seemed harder than usual and I bought a good Heavy Milwaukee metal cutting blade to finish up.