SureTrack Users General Discussion
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Have not been on much lately. Looks like I missed a bit. Glad I got a chuckle. Lease issues are done. Signed a 3 year, the only way to make it happen ended up with sub-leasing 1/3 of shop space to a family member. Now I get busy... The C-10 is still here, has been on the back burner for a bit. (Customer getting grumpy.) Finally found a fuel tank placement that I like. Screw the square tanks sold by most of the aftermarket suppliers that want the filler in the bed floor. A '69 F body tank will fit, just have to add a few pieces of metal. Unfortunately I now do not have enough room to remove the bed. Clamps and straps are nice. Welding became an issue. Not much room for a hood. Flash burn is starting to rear its ugly head. Going to try to drink my way into a decent nights sleep tonight. I think I picked decent pictures. Hard to tell.
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Think, if no way to find a stock factory tank set up , I would rather try to bolt a class 3 trailer hitch from something to the frame then figure out a way to possibly modify the class 3 hitch to cradle a plastic fuel cell in between the frame work of the hitch under the bed.
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Witsend,
I thought about a fuel cell like the race cars I work on, they are not baffled. They use foam. Here in CA. you have to change the foam every 2 years. Also not feasible for a filler neck. Customer refuses to fill through floor of bed. There is only 2 1/4" between outer skin and inner bed wall. Side filler is out. Thought about hinging Tail light, way too muck work. This Camaro tank by Spectra is baffled, set up with internal fuel pump with return. Granted: the pump it comes with is for Port Fuel, stock replacement for T.B.I. fits the unit. The filler is going to be in bumper behind hinged license plate. Made the straps from scratch the last couple days. Trying Herculner roll on bed liner as the insulate for the straps. Paint the rest. I think this is going to be a slick set up. Everything is drying now, will post better pictures when it is finish installed.
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Ahh Chrysler ??
If you find your self with a new Chrysler product with the new Dial A Matic transmission you may find yourself in a conundrum if you want to roll the vehicle around in the shop because it is disabled or for an alignment on the rack. The catch 22 is that you cannot shift the vehicle into neutral without the engine running and you cannot shut the engine off (push button start/stop) unless the vehicle is in park. The solution is hidden under the center consul in the form of a neutral lever that will manually put the tranny into neutral. Chrysler engineering "creating new problems everyday".Attached FilesComment
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Not going to waste much more space on the fuel tank. Just 2 pictures now that it is in for good. 3 inches more ground clearance than a motorhome parked out front. I am more than happy with it. Now have to deal with paint peeling off of bumper with blue tape....
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Yeah Greasy, I believe so. The truck is level on stands. the bottom of filler is 1 inch taller than highest point of tank. The stance on ground should be a little lower in the front.
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If the fill neck needs to go higher ,you could weld another 12 inches of tube on with a flex coupler ,tack the license bracket to it,and suspend some truck testicles underneath beneath it. Now you will have to figure out something for the Evap vent system,so you don't have fire following you in between the black stripes you leave. Yippee yi Oh Kai yea
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'01-'03 Ford F53 chassis Motorhome.
If any of you run across one of these with true 4 wheel A.B.S. (dual rear speed sensors and independently E.B.C.M. controlled rear lines.) Check resistance of rear sensors. They should measure same as front. About 2k Ohms.
Symptom: Amber ABS light on. Turn key on, would do three second bulb check, flash off then back on. Stayed on while driving. Tried S.O. Verus, Modis, Brick. 2 different Launch, 2 different Autel, 2 different Obsolete Tool Co. scanners. All listed no codes, each gave different versions of corrupt data. One launch gave me software data, most was N/A. rolled under it, saw module had been replaced recently. Had a Pass thru II packaged to ship to who loaned it to me. Tore into it thinking I could program module. Purchased 3 day pass, turns out factory built flashing requires I.D.S. Spent a couple hours on the phone with a Ford tech comparing data and schematic info with my Ford repair disc. Nothing matched this set up. After a couple days of spinning my wheels, ohm tested sensors. Fronts were 2k, RR was 35 and LR was 1.5. I had no spec for the rears but 1.5 had to be wrong. Obsolete from Ford. Special order from BWD 5 days later with $9.00 shipping. Tested new sensor, 2k ohms. ****, needs both of them. Overnighted a second with $29.00 freight. Installed both today. Bulb check, light still on but turns off after you hit 14 M.P.H.
Long story short, 3 year only. Ford is no help, different set up than any aftermarket scan tool is designed for. Just have to guess.
XAttached FilesLast edited by Crossland Auto; 05-03-2016, 07:20 AM.Comment
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Shop space
So far, the biggest pain in downsizing is finding space for the more important items. This is painful cutting up inventory to get 29 cents per pound. Steel is not even worth moving next door to the recycling yard. Next is condensers, evap cores, and heater cores.
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